CEF speed contest Design Discussions

Great Idea !!!

The Copy Kim Gets Out His Plagiarizing Notepad....

Here's an article on tank building by "Todd Ryan" that Paul Gibeault recommended I read. Todd's subject-tank is large; at 30+cc's... but the layout/construction is what I was curious about.

http://flyinglines.org/Clowntank.html

Thanks also to Ken Cook for his valuable advice on tanks; gained through his years of experience in using/building them.

roddie wrote:Here's an article on tank building by "Todd Ryan" that Paul Gibeault recommended I read. Todd's subject-tank is large; at 30+cc's... but the layout/construction is what I was curious about.

http://flyinglines.org/Clowntank.html

Thanks also to Ken Cook for his valuable advice on tanks; gained through his years of experience in using/building them.

That is a clean tank build.

Phil

I have a couple of these 1oz tanks for some of my race and speed planes. They work great.

Gettin' down to brass tacks here. Bellcrank platform and wing "tiplets" installed, racing wheels procured. Next step is to start finishing then go fly.

can-tank-erous... these tanks are tiny... the Copper tubing is 1/8" o.d... I went with a 1/8" lock-seam on the main tank bodies... but getting the end-caps to seal will be a challenge. I LOVE a challenge! These tanks will have uni-flow venting. I made 2... in case I butcher one of them. I realize that many entries will run bladder fuel-feed... but there's just something about a "hard-tank" that makes the model seem more like a "hot-rod" to me...

JPvelo wrote:Gettin' down to brass tacks here. Bellcrank platform and wing "tiplets" installed, racing wheels procured. Next step is to start finishing then go fly.

Looks SUPER-FINE Jim!!!!... LOVE those wings!!!

Nice going, Roddie. That's a nice appropriate giant sized prop for the Corsair.

Rusty

RknRusty wrote:Nice going, Roddie. That's a nice appropriate giant sized prop for the Corsair.

Rusty

I have some nice 4 1/4x5 and 4 1/4x5 1/4 props to play around with.

Jim

Good job Roddie. Very sharp.

Making a fuel tank, what a challenge Roger, It'll give great satisfaction when finished. Do you use a soldering iron? I recently bought one of these:



It gives a very local flame and is totally adjustable. Works very well for soldering.

When i'm looking at those beautiful planes of both Jim and you, I realize I'm encoutering serious delays, but I suppose I'm not the only one.

Bon courage,

Lieven

Just forgot. Roger, that copper tubing you bought says: "copper tubing installation kit" - to install what? Is it automotive? maybe for pressure gauges? I'd like to get something similar over here.

lieven

I decided to make a 2 ply wing with the grain running crooswise as much as possible. I made 2 holes in the lower sheet for plywood inserts to bolt landing gear and belcrank onto.



I sanded stab and rudder and cut ou the elevator.





Lieven

OVERLORD wrote:Just forgot. Roger, that copper tubing you bought says: "copper tubing installation kit" - to install what? Is it automotive? maybe for pressure gauges? I'd like to get something similar over here.

lieven

Yes, it is for an oil pressure gauge. Check any auto parts retail store and there should be a similar product.

Phil

OVERLORD wrote:Making a fuel tank, what a challenge Roger, It'll give great satisfaction when finished. Do you use a soldering iron? I recently bought one of these:



It gives a very local flame and is totally adjustable. Works very well for soldering.

When i'm looking at those beautiful planes of both Jim and you, I realize I'm encoutering serious delays, but I suppose I'm not the only one.

Bon courage,

Lieven

I have a Microflame "Cub". It uses Co2 size butane cartridges... I've had the thing for 25 years... and have never used it! Maybe I should try this rather than an electric iron? I also have 2-3 different grades of Silver-bearing solder... but I'm not sure which one to use.



The Copper tubing was Phil's tip... and yes; I got it at an auto-parts store, in the aisle where the "gauges" are. It bends easily... and should be perfect for this app.

Thank You for the compliments on our airplanes. Building tiny models like these is a real challenge... I like seeing other modelers' innovations... and this contest is teaching us all some new tricks which we could certainly apply to future models.

BTW... I LIKE your wing-design with the cut-outs for the plywood. Are you building gear-blocks like what I did on mine?

What a fantastic idea this profile scale speed postal event is going to be. I've already decided on the plane. There's only the 1930s racers for me. I dont think the GeeBee R2 will work so Bugattie R100 it is. I suppose I better build a speed trainer and do a bit of learning speed first.

Cheers Mike

That would be great Mike, with a central engine and counterrotating props.  When looking at your avatar, I wondered if you had a Bugatti model.

I found that if you place a hardwood block in a vise, and drill a shallow hole... the size of your tubing's OD, you can "start" a punch in the sheet-metal with an awl, then "center it" over the drilled hole to finish punch. It opens-up the panel hole; to the "tube's diameter" and creates a pocket for a stronger solder joint to support the tube... and it also doesn't distort the surrounding area.  

When it comes time to solder the end-caps to the body, I'm going to try holding them in place with a fine wire tie.

Interesting article on a contest very similar to this one:
http://www.modelaircraft.org/files/1028LairdSuperSolution.pdf

Well I finally got my drawing tools out and my 2013 tach race Killer Bee, all on the dining room table. Got my balsa sheets. Some old hard plastic wheels from kits of the past that I'll turn down nice and thin. Hopefully a badass speed plane will start to appear. I don't think I'll have to buy any more parts for it. I started roughing a sketch out tonight and I'll work at it tomorrow until the football games come on in the evening. It's rivalry day in the NCAA.

Rusty

I thought of a way to use a jig-block to bend the tank bodies more squarely. Being rectangular; I cut a hardwood block to the inner-tank dimensions (height/width) and long enough to handle with one hand. I Squared and "double-clamped" the tank sheet to the end of the block on a level surface; leaving clearance for the 1st bend. Then... one at a time; I Reposition the clamps, until I've worked all the way around the block. You should have an overhang of stock for a seam, if you measured correctly.

The end-caps can be made on the "end" of the jig-block, and are assured to fit tightly to the body afterward.

RknRusty wrote:Well I finally got my drawing tools out and my 2013 tach race Killer Bee, all on the dining room table. Got my balsa sheets. Some old hard plastic wheels from kits of the past that I'll turn down nice and thin. Hopefully a badass speed plane will start to appear. I don't think I'll have to buy any more parts for it. I started roughing a sketch out tonight and I'll work at it tomorrow until the football games come on in the evening. It's rivalry day in the NCAA.

Rusty

Rusty's lightin' the fire!!!!!

JPvelo wrote:Interesting article on a contest very similar to this one:
http://www.modelaircraft.org/files/1028LairdSuperSolution.pdf

That was a great read! That's a super cool bipe! They fly on 8 ft. shorter lines. That would definitely be dizzying... at first anyway...