TD 010 reassembly question

Frank Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:20 pm

I am assembling a Tee Dee 010. My question ... should there be a thrust washer behind the prop drive?

Frank

SuperDave Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:29 pm

Frank: Just checked my NIB TD .010, no it doesn't have washer behind the trust plate.

nitroairplane Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:35 pm

Nope there wasn't one.

Frank Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:42 pm

I notice very minimul crank end play on the bigger Tee Dee's so I thought maybe I was missing something here. Thanks for the quick reply guys!

nitroairplane Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:44 pm

If there is a lot of end play on yours maybe it would be a good idea to add one.

**RknRusty** Sun Mar 18, 2012 12:57 pm

nitroairplane wrote:If there is a lot of end play on yours maybe it would be a good idea to add one.

I agree, if you push and turn, make sure you don't feel or hear the crank pin touching anything behind it.

Frank Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:06 pm

Ok, it's back together and when I turn and push, the crank pin does not contact the tank. I guess I was being to fussy. Next problem, I go to reset the rod and piston to find out I can't locate my reset tool arrrrrrrrgggggg!! DAMMIT!

Either that or I never had one? So, I ordered another. Looking forward to the run up and the noise.

Frank

**RknRusty** Sun Mar 18, 2012 7:34 pm

I'm one of the few dissenters on the subject or resetting just because it isn't perfect. Unless it has a lot of play I tend to leave it alone. It's easy for a piston to be not quite right after whacking on it. I do consider it a bit more critical on a Tee Dee because of the high RPM though.
We could start a thread on that topic.

Frank Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:07 pm

RknRusty wrote:I'm one of the few dissenters on the subject or resetting just because it isn't perfect. Unless it has a lot of play I tend to leave it alone. It's easy for a piston to be not quite right after whacking on it. I do consider it a bit more critical on a Tee Dee because of the high RPM though.
We could start a thread on that topic.

Any time I have play I reset. When I flew SAM 1/2A Texaco it was necessary for a good run. I set them so the rod will just stay in place and not fall when held in the horizontal. Once into the flight it loosens up and runs great. I even beat another competitor with a diesel, they ran that good. I ran an 8x6 E prop, APC at 4900 rpm on an 049. 5 cc of fuel gave me 5 minutes. Why won't you reset them Rusty?

Frank

**RknRusty** Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:49 pm

I've discussed it here in detail, but long story short, I keep getting deformed pistons.
here are the answers to the usual questions:

I have a clean flat iron anvil on my concrete shop floor
Cox International reset tool with the punch and base, there is a nib relief in the center of the base. A 2oz tack hammer
Insert piston in base, turn it back and forth confirming it's fully seated
Tap tap tap, rotate a few degrees. Keep this up for 20 sets of taps, no change
Do it again for another 10 sets, rotating after each 3 taps, still no change
Test fit piston in cylinder to find it either mushroomed, or I have to search for the position where the piston slides most freely. There is no change in the ball-socket play

If you can tell me which step I'm screwing it up, I'll try again, but I can't always buy a new cylinder/piston set whenever I botch one. I have managed to use some 1000 grit paper on the top edge of the piston to reclaim its usefulness, probably sacrificing the longevity of the cylinder bore.

**Cribbs74** Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:02 pm

I haven't had a problem resetting pistons yet. I have done about 6 or so. I see how it could go wrong though.

I suppose in the big scheme it doesn't make a tremendous amount of difference. For me I just like things perfect. To be honest I haven't noticed any crazy performance spike after I ran one that was reset.

crankbndr Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:06 pm

I use an 8 oz ball-peen, whack it smartly 6-8 times while turning. Your tool must be bad.

**Cribbs74** Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:11 pm

Rusty,

Didn't read your post before I posted mine. I'ts gotta be your technique. The .049's take me 3-4 solid taps and my .020's 1-2

I push down hard on the little drift and just give it a solid tap. I use the Cox International/ Exmodel versions.

The .049's take a little harder hit.......

**RknRusty** Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:28 pm

Sounds like I'm being too dainty with it. I'll use a heavier hammer and try it on an old one.
And my wife says my tool is just fine!

dckrsn Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:47 pm

crankbndr wrote:I use an 8 oz ball-peen, whack it smartly 6-8 times while turning. Your tool must be bad.

My experience exactly.
8oz hammer, usually 5 or 6 firm hits works for me.
Never distorted a piston.....yet.
I've only reset .049 and .020s.
Bob

Jason_WI Sun Mar 18, 2012 11:36 pm

I use a 16oz hammer and never had a problem. I just reset an 010 piston tonight with this hammer and worked fine. Took about 40 light taps while turning to get it just right.

Some 049 pistons are extremely hard and it takes some pretty hard taps to make any progress. Some sure start pistons are soft and take lighter taps to set them. I always start light and increase the force if I do not see any noticeable change in 20 taps or so.

I also have a genuine cox 049 reset tool so it may be possible that your reset tool is defective in some way.

Sponsored content

TD 010 reassembly question