Heavy hubs

Try Harry Higley. He always seems to have a bunch of stuff not listed on any ads or websites. He is a super guy to deal with and his products are great too.

The Higley hubs are fairly easy to find and if I recall the weights, I beleive the short one was about 1/8 oz and the large one was about 3/8 oz..
A little harder to find are the Cox AT-6 prop spinners and studs. They look the best and are stock Cox pieces.
If you are really lucky you might find a long beam Tatone mount for a TD that moves the whole engine forward about 1/2 inch.
Swap meets and about once a year on eBay for any of the above is usual.

Kim wrote:I think Dubro makes some fairly hefty aluminum spinners.

Yep. Look nice too.

http://www.bigskyhobby.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1127

I will contact Harry Higley and see.

I have one of those Dubro Jobs. Very large.

Thanks Guys

Ron

fit90 wrote:Try Harry Higley. He always seems to have a bunch of stuff not listed on any ads or websites. He is a super guy to deal with and his products are great too.

I just spent a half hour going through that catalog. Those are some convenient tools. I know I've cursed and thrown tubes and wires in the trash after mangling them beyond use. Those benders would have made life in the shop much more pleasant some days..

I've played around with this same idea myself. I thought about making Cox appearance look alike spinners from brass. It always seems to not be so favorable. I know it would work, but I just feel at times this is probably not always the best idea. You wouldn't run a marathon in 10 lb sneakers. If the model can be reworked by lengthening and shortening, this is typically you best solution due to it not adding weight. Wrapping the engine nacelle in lightweight glass and epoxy can add some weight to the nose. At least your receiving a benefit from this weight as opposed to a lead hitch hiker. Keep in mind, that tapering, sanding and weighing all play an important role. Initially one would think, there's no way that difference would change matters, but it just does sometimes. Many times, especially in the newer laser cut kits, the manufacturers provide lightweight wood. This does serve a purpose and although the this keeps the weight off, lightweight wood isn't always a good thing. Some areas require heavier stiffer grain applications. I personally don't use the designer's CG as if it's cast in stone. I've built many kits and had to use my judgement and almost lost a few planes due to tail heavy conditions. If the engine is beam mounted, you can slide the engine fore and aft on the beams. The problem is that many of us would like to hit these specifics on the mark prior to finishing and it just doesn't always happen that way.

Try weighing 10 different Cox engines which are all the same model. You will find that 2 possibly weigh the same. Some of these can be dramatically different. Prop choices as well can also change things.

Coxengines.ca has heavy spinner nuts for rubber/plastic spinner cones. They are notably heavier than a regular spinner nut, but not nearly as heavy as a solid metal spinner.


Ken is right that a heavy spinner is a power robbing device, but it is more simple than some other mentioned options to start with. I won't part with my heavy spinner options though I try to eliminate their use.

Phil

toward the end of production, cox used a heavy (steel) hub on their AT-6 as well as a couple of the star war planes, i'd bet somewhere somebody has a bin full of 'em!
if you needed a little more nose weight, you could used a cox rubber pt-19 type spinner, or a larger 8cc tank.

Mark Boesen wrote:toward the end of production, cox used a heavy (steel) hub on their AT-6 as well as a couple of the star war planes, i'd bet somewhere somebody has a bin full of 'em!
if you needed a little more nose weight, you could used a cox rubber pt-19 type spinner, or a larger 8cc tank.

In this case I am using a TD on a Maple beam mount. I think I may have it covered by using a Tatone, but these are all good suggestions thanks Mark.

Ron