Check out this "Cox Baby Bee 049 with Extra big Tank"!

Probably not, I'm after one new in the box. At the last hours of the auction, it will go way up. We had a "Back to the 50s" car show at our fairgrounds just last June and there was a guy selling a bunch of model engines down at the swap meet area. He had over 30 Cox engines and 3 of them were RR-1s and 1 was a Venom. He wanted $130 each for the RR-1s and $200 for the Venom. Unfortunately the Venom was already sold and the guy was holding it for the buyer. I bought that Cox Jeep from him and a few Babe Bees. One of these days though, I'll come across another Venom (hopefully).

-Jacob

Jacob,

I will certainly keep my eyes open for one. How much were you looking to spend on a New In Box one?

That one looks real, but one would have to remove that leaky tank extender.

Matt.

how many tank extenders is it possible to have on one engine?
Could i make 50cc tank?

Lol....I suppose you could do as many as you want. You would have to source some pretty long screws though.

You may also run into the issue of fuel and air getting to the engine correctly. Guess if I was bored one day I may play around with the lathe and make an aluminum extender as the plastic one like to leak.

Matt.

EXModelEngines wrote:Jacob,

I will certainly keep my eyes open for one. How much were you looking to spend on a New In Box one?

That one looks real, but one would have to remove that leaky tank extender.

Matt.

I'm not quite after one at this moment, I have my Venom clones to mess with. I do come across them quite often at shows and sales around here. Most of the time their priced too high (over $250), on a plane that you really don't want (with a high price attached mostly because of the plane) or already called for. Its the same for the RR-1s. Not all the Cox engines are over priced, I do find Black Widows and Babe Bees for under $15. Cheapest Babe Bee I ever found was in the 1 dollar box at a garage sale.

Yeah, most of them do go for ridiculous sums of money and are really not worth that much, especially for an engine that will be flown.

Matt.

I think of I was going to make a really long tank I would need some pretty good gaskets maybe rubber ones

Matt, you should actually make and sell Venom clones on your site. They wouldn't be that hard to make with the modern available cox parts. The other day I was modifying a 8cc plastic tank to have a larger 2.08 mm venturi throat and cross vent tubes like the Black Widow stunt tank. You already have the Killer Bee cranks, the modified sure start to TD cylinder and the lightened SPI piston. Just anodize some crankcases venom red and toss them together with the zero drag Killer Bee drive plate and thrust washer.. Obviously you would have to charge enough to make a profit.




I knew I still had this picture, someone sent me this picture a few years ago...

That picture is funny and I noticed it slants down wards Is that so the fuel stays at the bottom
I too think that Out of Bernie Matt and Reggie at least one could sell a few venom clones and I'm sure they would sell but I found that when I made a surestart a few years ago from pars I had it didn't run very well but I havE not built a venom clone I think I might try that some time in the future

Well the only problem I was having with my earlier clones was the piston/cylinder fit. I used #4 post '96 TD cylinders on my first one, as many people know those cylinders usually had a tight fit when brand new. For the piston/cylinder assemblies that were new out of the package, I would break the assembly in on a TD crankcase. Some of the cylinders I used were lose cylinders I got from parts lots off eBay, I then had to find a good piston that fit it perfectly. Other then that problem, the other things were finding the needle setting, finding a good reed and so on. When I usually build engines from extra used parts, its usually the piston/cylinder assembly that gives all the trouble.

I have thought of it before, but to the point about the sure start parts being good enough is the sticking point at the moment.

I'll have a look next week and get back to you guys!

Matt.

I have also had problems using high compression on stock surestart cranks even though I have never had problems with diesel babe bees on stock cranks

Admin wrote:
I knew I still had this picture, someone sent me this picture a few years ago...

Haha, you could just mount wings, stab and rudder on it.
And keep it away from your wife, it looks dangerous.

RknRusty wrote:

Admin wrote:
I knew I still had this picture, someone sent me this picture a few years ago...

Haha, you could just mount wings, stab and rudder on it.
And keep it away from your wife, it looks dangerous.

Lolgasm it would make a sick CL speed plane though

Admin wrote:Looks awful close to a Venom doesn't it? May be a clone, may be real...

I wonder how the venturi is connected to the intake. I'd think you'd need to bore out the intake bigger than any hi-perf bee and use a tube with a pretty wide ID to compensate for the air resistance en-route to the venturi orifice. And glue it with black permatex at both ends. Probably need to put the pickup at the mid point so it doesn't suck air during a decent.[url][/url][img][/img]

RknRusty wrote:

Admin wrote:Looks awful close to a Venom doesn't it? May be a clone, may be real...

I wonder how the venturi is connected to the intake. I'd think you'd need to bore out the intake bigger than any hi-perf bee and use a tube with a pretty wide ID to compensate for the air resistance en-route to the venturi orifice. And glue it with black permatex at both ends. Probably need to put the pickup at the mid point so it doesn't suck air during a decent.[url][/url][img][/img]

I'm not sure I think you would need the pick up line nearer the crankcase to ensure reliable fuel draw.

nitroairplane wrote:

RknRusty wrote:

Admin wrote:Looks awful close to a Venom doesn't it? May be a clone, may be real...

I wonder how the venturi is connected to the intake. I'd think you'd need to bore out the intake bigger than any hi-perf bee and use a tube with a pretty wide ID to compensate for the air resistance en-route to the venturi orifice. And glue it with black permatex at both ends. Probably need to put the pickup at the mid point so it doesn't suck air during a decent.[url][/url][img][/img]

I'm not sure I think you would need the pick up line nearer the crankcase to ensure reliable fuel draw.

I would think it would need to be near the backplate since the fuel tank is bowl shaped and the thrust of the plane would force the fuel back towards the backplate.

To quote Perer Griffin from family guy "touché salesman"
But on the super large tank engine the tank slopes
Towards the crankcase.

nitroairplane wrote:
I'm not sure I think you would need the pick up line nearer the crankcase to ensure reliable fuel draw.

Then it might starve in a climb. I figured just split the difference and put it at mid point. Flying level there is no fore or aft thrust so the fuel is evenly pooled against the outboard wall. Only while climbing and diving is the fuel at one end or the other. I don't know, we'd have to try it and see, but this probably isn't a great system. Maybe someone will buy one and tell us about it.

nitroairplane wrote:To quote Perer Griffin from family guy "touché salesman"
Butnin he super large tank engine the tank slopes
Towards the crankcase.

I thought you were talking about the extended tank on the venom. Can you tell that the huge long tanked thing is just a photoshop?

I was talking about the eBay tank. I figured that freaky long tank was shopped.

I can tell it looks about as photoshopped as thenfront of OK magazine look at the slant on it

RknRusty wrote:I was talking about the eBay tank. I figured that freaky long tank was shopped.

That's what I was talking about too.