Do glow heads really glow???

SUCESS!!!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004843_10201642514606254_117413553_n.jpg
I got her going today!
(She didn't fly very well, but that's a different thing all together.
I'm going to post a new topic and go over all the newbie stuff again.

Thank you all who helped in this!

Sincerely,
policetac

I also use Sig Champion "25" in my Cox engines. If you acquire a used engine or find one somewhere (yard sale etc.) that feels seized-up... it is often merely a result of the castor oil hardening (it oxidizes) over time of non-use (years)... DON'T try to force it to turn. Soaking the engine in a container of solvent (kerosene) for a few days may be all that's needed.
If it's a reed valve engine; Baby Bee, Pee Wee, Sure Start etc... The reed may be stuck to the seat. An indication of this is where the engine "will start" with an exhaust prime, but won't stay running. In this case; disassembly is required to access the reed and it's "retainer". A small screwdriver is all that's needed for this. I work over a "cookie sheet" so as not to lose any of the parts (screws, gaskets etc.) The reed is a small, thin, FRAGILE part that must be handled with care. It "is" however, replaceable. The area where the reed "seats" (against the venturi opening) is where it can get stuck from hardened castor oil. The retainer that holds the reed against the seat, may be a metal spring-clip, and can be removed with small needle-nose pliers. DON'T scrape or scratch the seat area, or else the critical seal between the two will be compromised. Again; "soak it" with solvent, and "carefully" try removing the reed gently, with a wooden toothpick. Clean the seat area with a soft rag, soaked with solvent. On engines with "integral" fuel tanks (Baby Bee, Golden Bee, etc.) inspect the fuel pick-up line which presses onto a sm. nipple on the inner backplate. If the line is cracked or brittle; it should be replaced. Inspect the sm. venturi gasket which is between the backplate and the venturi. Remove the needle valve and shoot solvent through with a syringe before you put it back together.When clean, reassemble; making sure the crankcase gasket is aligned with the 4 mounting holes in the crankcase and is not torn (if you have a new reed, gasket(s) and screws... use them) Tighten the 4 screws "gradually and evenly" which hold the assy. onto the crankcase. These engines benefit HUGELY from being cleaned properly... and kept clean. Can't stress that enough.

Sig Champion "25" is a really good choice for Cox engines. Keep your fuel tightly cappedand store it in a cool dark area, out of the reach of children. I would caution against blending your own fuels or "adding" castor, until you get used to starting, running and tuning your engine. There are lots of performance variables with these engines... consistent fuel quality is a biggy... along with cleanliness.

Parts are available through miniglowplanes.com I have had very good experience with them.

Hope this was of some help to you,
Roger

Thanks, Roger. Welcome to CEF.
Rusty

Thanks Rusty. I noticed that Rick (Policetac) posted a pic of engines that were given to him! How cooool!

A note for Rick, concerning the reed valve engines; by their design, they "suck" fuel and air into the crankcase when the piston travels "up" (pulling the reed away from it's seat) and when the piston travels "down", it pressurizes the cranckcase (pushing the reed against it's seat) not relying on a "gravity" fuel delivery as much.

This action makes "external fuel tank" position less critical than with the front "rotary valve" induction as on the Tee Dee. Either type; keep fuel lines short as possible.

It's good practice to filter your fuel from it's container, and use an "in-line" filter on your engines with external tanks... This will again; lessen variables, when it comes to troubleshooting.

Another great function of the reed valve engine; is it's ability to run in either direction, as long as the engine is cooled sufficiently. This is useful in custom applications; cars, boats, pushers and especially a twin engine rc plane; where it would be advantageous to run counter-rotating props. (i.e. front facing you; L/H engine-conventional ccw rotation and R/H engine-cw rotation... using the correct props) This prevents a catastrophe if the L/H engine fails... Electrics can benefit from this as well, but not the majority of glow/gas model engines because of their rotary valve induction, restricted ccw rotation.