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Post  ian1954 Mon Aug 05, 2013 4:21 pm

Quite often I find the Cox engines I am restoring have a broken needle. It seems to be a common calamity and depending on where the break is - they can be quite difficult to remove.

As I am repairing and restoring backplates at the moment, I thought I wouldn't pass this one by.

The first pictures show the "easy" way. Clean the broken end and use super glue to stick a rod (in this case a broken con rod) to it. Always apply the glue to the rod before joining or you could end up sticking the broken needle to the thread.

Let it dry and then twist. (anti-clockwise of course!)

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50% of the time this will work but in this case - three attempts and no joy!

Now for more desperate measures. Mount the backplate in a vice, centre the needle and drill a hole - not very deep - about 1/8". I use a centre drill to start followed by a 1/16" jobber drill (buy them in 10s - very cheap).

Superglue the end of the shaft of the drill - just the tip - insert in the hole - twist and out will come the needle. Be patient and let the super glue (cyano) dry.

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I almost forgot. Don't spill glue on the dog!
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:01 pm

Great tip thanks!!

Ron
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Post  pkrankow Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:41 pm

Fantastic!

Ever try vibrations? Those needles walk all over the place when the engine is running... (double sticky to a test engine? Probably a dumb idea)

Phil
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Post  RknRusty Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:07 pm

Man, some of you dudes have some pretty shop equipment.Very Happy
I was just thinking, after you glue the rod or the bit to the broken needle, some heat to the backplate might help it turn out more freely, especially if it's gum stuck.

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Post  ian1954 Tue Aug 06, 2013 3:56 am

I like the "vibration" suggestion - if only it were that easy! But seeing Bee needles wobbling about when the engine is running makes you wonder.

Usually, if the needle has broken it has distorted as well and so that is jamming it. Also some would appear to be overtightened to the point of snapping. (The needle is quite soft steel!).

If it was just gummed up then heat would free it.

This one was locked in tight. Hence resorting to drilling.
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