Log in
Search
Latest topics
» My latest doodle...by batjac Yesterday at 10:05 pm
» Retail price mark-up.. how much is enough?
by gkamysz Yesterday at 9:29 pm
» Happy 77th birthday Andrew!
by roddie Yesterday at 9:22 pm
» Roger Harris revisited
by rsv1cox Yesterday at 3:38 pm
» My N-1R build log
by GallopingGhostler Yesterday at 3:04 pm
» Tee Dee .020 combat model
by 1/2A Nut Yesterday at 2:43 pm
» Chocolate chip cookie dough.........
by roddie Yesterday at 1:13 pm
» Purchased the last of any bult engines from Ken Enya
by sosam117 Yesterday at 11:32 am
» Free Flight Radio Assist
by rdw777 Yesterday at 9:24 am
» Funny what you find when you go looking
by rsv1cox Wed Nov 20, 2024 3:21 pm
» Landing-gear tips
by 1975 control line guy Wed Nov 20, 2024 8:17 am
» Cox NaBOO - Just in time for Halloween
by rsv1cox Tue Nov 19, 2024 6:35 pm
Cox Engine of The Month
Repairing metal back plates
Page 1 of 1
Repairing metal back plates
I hate throwing anything away if it can be repaired, restored or used in some other fashion. I have read alot of posts advocating the use of JBWeld and I think it is a very fine expedient.
However for me, it takes too long (setting time) and it shows up as a repair or stands out unless the repair is out of sight.
I use "Lumiweld" but a word of warning - its melting point is close to that of aluminium and even closer to that of the backplate. The repair though is stronger than the original metal and with the lugs on a backplate - they will break somewhere else and not at the join.
It is not a repair material for the feint hearted and requires practise. A key element is that when the weld material has melted the part to which it is the be joined must be scratched with a sharp stainless steel point to break the oxidisation for the bond to form. You don't get much time to do this - take too long and the part will melt!
In this instance all the lugs were bent so I straighten them gently in a vice.
and keep checking that I have got the plate flat
Then I set it as shown below - the mount I used is steel with a 7/64 drill rod. The weld does not stick to steel.
Heat up the mount.
Apply the Lumiweld and do the "scratching" - haven't got any pictures of this because I only have two hands.
Followed by grinding and filing (no need to drill the hole)
A good clean and it is ready for replating and polishing.
However for me, it takes too long (setting time) and it shows up as a repair or stands out unless the repair is out of sight.
I use "Lumiweld" but a word of warning - its melting point is close to that of aluminium and even closer to that of the backplate. The repair though is stronger than the original metal and with the lugs on a backplate - they will break somewhere else and not at the join.
It is not a repair material for the feint hearted and requires practise. A key element is that when the weld material has melted the part to which it is the be joined must be scratched with a sharp stainless steel point to break the oxidisation for the bond to form. You don't get much time to do this - take too long and the part will melt!
In this instance all the lugs were bent so I straighten them gently in a vice.
and keep checking that I have got the plate flat
Then I set it as shown below - the mount I used is steel with a 7/64 drill rod. The weld does not stick to steel.
Heat up the mount.
Apply the Lumiweld and do the "scratching" - haven't got any pictures of this because I only have two hands.
Followed by grinding and filing (no need to drill the hole)
A good clean and it is ready for replating and polishing.
ian1954- Diamond Member
- Posts : 2688
Join date : 2011-11-16
Age : 70
Location : England
Re: Repairing metal back plates
Well shoot! Glad I kept that mounting lug I snapped off of my black widow metal backplate. Can Lumiweld join two pieces together?
When you say it doesn't stick to metal how does it adhere to the backplate? Excellent job on the repair!
Ron
When you say it doesn't stick to metal how does it adhere to the backplate? Excellent job on the repair!
Ron
Cribbs74- Moderator
-
Posts : 11907
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 50
Location : Tuttle, OK
Re: Repairing metal back plates
I should have made it more clear - it welds to aluminium - repairs carburettors for example - and aluminium alloys. To "stick" it has to be molten and you have to scratch through the aluminium oxide. Once the oxide layer is broken, it penetrates and welds.
To join two pieces they woul have to be "tinned" first. A thin coating of the weld applied to each piece befor bringing them together.
However, the melting point is close to aluminium - caution is required.
To join two pieces they woul have to be "tinned" first. A thin coating of the weld applied to each piece befor bringing them together.
However, the melting point is close to aluminium - caution is required.
ian1954- Diamond Member
- Posts : 2688
Join date : 2011-11-16
Age : 70
Location : England
Re: Repairing metal back plates
Nice work Ian. Very professional looking! Alumiweld is some good stuff. I've used it to make and repair automotive a/c lines before but I never knew it could be used to repair back plates.
Shawn
Shawn
sdjjadk- Platinum Member
- Posts : 640
Join date : 2012-04-07
Location : Southern Maryland
Re: Repairing metal back plates
I didn't think the backplates were aluminum. They look more like cast steel or something. They sure are heavy.
Cribbs74- Moderator
-
Posts : 11907
Join date : 2011-10-24
Age : 50
Location : Tuttle, OK
Re: Repairing metal back plates
It is definitely an aluminum alloy. I can plate them with nickel, zinc, brass or copper but have to prepare them and use "zincate" to coat them first. This is an aluminium treatment. I will post some pictures when I do a batch of what they look like when the existing coating has been stripped off. You will see that they are a dull grey after stripping.
If a backplate has lost its coating through use and age, I find the clue is the white furry oxidation that forms inside. If they are plated with zinc, they can then be furher protected with a clear or yellow "passivate" - this is what results in the "silver" colour or the "brass/bronze" finish. I am still perfecting this though!
The one you see above has been nickel plated but needs a second coating.
If a backplate has lost its coating through use and age, I find the clue is the white furry oxidation that forms inside. If they are plated with zinc, they can then be furher protected with a clear or yellow "passivate" - this is what results in the "silver" colour or the "brass/bronze" finish. I am still perfecting this though!
The one you see above has been nickel plated but needs a second coating.
ian1954- Diamond Member
- Posts : 2688
Join date : 2011-11-16
Age : 70
Location : England
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum