Cox engine tips and tricks.

SuperDave wrote:I can't recommend too highly the use of properly fitting screwdrives and wrenches in dis- assembly/assembly of engines (or ANYTHING mechanical).


Additionally, always use SHARP drill bits designated for use on MODELS only not for household purposes.

Why make a repair even more difficult by using improper tools?

SuperDave wrote:I find that a coat of finishing resin on firewalls and engine mounts makes a great way to prevent nitro saturation and help preserve a plane's useful life-span.

shell shock wrote:scratch building done on the cheap. i found 40% off coupons in my local paper for a arts store. bought plenty of balsa. used a nice sharp blade and razor saw.

my local hobby store (total) 22$ for assorted sizes of balsa wood (round four pieces were chosen based on needs)
michaels art store (total) 13$ (same size as above, and coupon discount applied)

point being, might be worth it to check your paper or online for coupons or sales at art stores

PV Pilot wrote:

shell shock wrote:scratch building done on the cheap. i found 40% off coupons in my local paper for a arts store. bought plenty of balsa. used a nice sharp blade and razor saw.

my local hobby store (total) 22$ for assorted sizes of balsa wood (round four pieces were chosen based on needs)
michaels art store (total) 13$ (same size as above, and coupon discount applied)

point being, might be worth it to check your paper or online for coupons or sales at art stores

Your are looking at $15 worth of extremely marked down balsa wood. A local hardware store was getting out of the model side of things, and I spotted this tucked back in the corner. Bought it all, took the Midwest balsa display box as well, which gave me sku and part numbers also. The local Micheal's gets some of my business as well

SD, what finishing resin do you use?? I am about to that point on my Super Jake.

microflitedude wrote:
Always check all your screws/bolts prior to running. I've heard of many injuries from flying motors.

ideeman1994 wrote:

microflitedude wrote:
Always check all your screws/bolts prior to running. I've heard of many injuries from flying motors.

This happened to me 2 years ago, with the second Cox I got, a Pee Wee... I wasn't very experienced at the time, and simply attached the engine with ONE screw and 3 nails (YES, I know, very stupid thing to do ), that was the only thing I had to attach the Cox.
Guess I didn't realise how much vibration this engine could make, and the three nails just flew off... The Pee Wee started spinning around the only screw, until it eventually broke loose. I nearly hit me (under a meter from my head) and flew 10 meters away...

Since then, I always use bolts on the FOUR mounting brackets...

Admin wrote:I had a Black Widow fly *almost* fly off the stand. I caught it just in time but to only have it running in my hand. Yes it was very hot and yes I felt it for days afterwards.

nitroairplane wrote:

Admin wrote:I had a Black Widow fly *almost* fly off the stand. I caught it just in time but to only have it running in my hand. Yes it was very hot and yes I felt it for days afterwards.

I regularly run my tee dee .010s in my hand and its fine but if i go near the cylinder OUCH painful and oily burns.

Admin wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:

Admin wrote:I had a Black Widow fly *almost* fly off the stand. I caught it just in time but to only have it running in my hand. Yes it was very hot and yes I felt it for days afterwards.

I regularly run my tee dee .010s in my hand and its fine but if i go near the cylinder OUCH painful and oily burns.

You have a plastic tank to hold on to. When your holding a aluminum tank, the transfer of heat is greater plus the engine is larger.

RknRusty wrote:I use a shop rag for emergency shutdowns.
Of course it helps if the prop hasn't left the premises.

ideeman1994 wrote:Not to mention the countless times I cut open my fingers with sharp props...

So another tip, when you're not experienced, wear gloves or use a chicken stick