Cox engine bargains.

Admin wrote:I would have to think for awhile, I remember getting a Babe Bee off eBay for $8 buy it now with free shipping. I am currently bidding on 3 auctions right now. 2 vintage Babe Bees for $*.** each and a hidden auction with 3 engines in it, a older babe bee, older pee wee and a product engine plus some landing gear for **¢. Please do not try to find it. For the babe bees, please don't make me pay more for them...

does one of those have a prop thats been drawn on?
I found those last week.
i wont be bidding.

I'm in the position of already having all the Cox engines that I need/want. My challenge is not to obtain more but to use the ones that I have.

My wife has a collection of tea cups and I offer her the same challenge.

wife: sd:

Admin wrote:. Please do not try to find it. For the babe bees, please don't make me pay more for them...

LOL!,,,Hmmmm.

Everyone dog pile on those adds,,run the price up.

So long as you don't bid on my Aeronca Champ,,were good. (oops!)

PV Pilot wrote:

Admin wrote:. Please do not try to find it. For the babe bees, please don't make me pay more for them...

LOL!,,,Hmmmm.

Everyone dog pile on those adds,,run the price up.

So long as you don't bid on my Aeronca Champ,,were good. (oops!)

Please by all means bid on the Dx5e I have on eBay with a micro receiver.

nitroairplane wrote:
does one of those have a prop thats been drawn on?
I found those last week.
i wont be bidding.

I don't believe they have a prop that has been drawn on.

Admin wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:
does one of those have a prop thats been drawn on?
I found those last week.
i wont be bidding.

I don't believe they have a prop that has been drawn on.

Oh then i saw a different one.

Alright I won 2 of the auctions I was after. The 3rd auction turned into a price war that I wanted to get out of !

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320770647183


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220868293525

Admin wrote:Alright I won 2 of the auctions I was after. The 3rd auction turned into a price war that I wanted to get out of !

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320770647183


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220868293525

That second one is a great deal
That pee wee is in good condition.

No matter the price paid, I wouldn't consider an engine "bargain" until I had it in my hand for close examination.

When buying an old car, those that are price-only oriented often fall into the trap of "needs restoration" without understang the costs involved.

Buying "cheap" can become quite expensive.

SuperDave wrote:No matter the price paid, I wouldn't consider an engine "bargain" until I had it in my hand for close examination.

When buying an old car, those that are price-only oriented often fall into the trap of "needs restoration" without understang the costs involved.

Buying "cheap" can become quite expensive.

They're so simple, if nothing on the outside I say at the most would need new gaskets, possibly a glowhead, pickup tube etc. Especially if they turn over. How much is a 1960's babe bee worth in good condition?

I usually see real nice out of package 1960s Babe Bees sell for about $15+ unless there's 2 people who really want it, then I've seen them go up to $25. For the engines I just bought, I'm just hoping the seller didn't try too hard to free that Babe Bee and Product engine. It says they are still stuck so lets hope the crank is stuck and not just the piston otherwise there could be some ball & socket damage. Well as long as its not like that 1956 Babe Bee, that thing had to have a new crankcase and tank bowl plus tank screws. Anyway, I like to work on poor condition engines and make them run like new.

I retyped this message since I originally typed it on my phone.

As at resort consider using the engine for a paper weight. Make lemonade from a "lemon".

SuperDave wrote:No matter the price paid, I wouldn't consider an engine "bargain" until I had it in my hand for close examination.

When buying an old car, those that are price-only oriented often fall into the trap of "needs restoration" without understang the costs involved.

Buying "cheap" can become quite expensive.

I think its worth that price even for the visible parts only.

SuperDave wrote:As at resort consider using the engine for a paper weight. Make lemonade from a "lemon".

Well, I sure would never throw any cox engine part away. I even have busted crankshafts, broken carb bodies and even burnt out glow heads. At the last resort, the engine would turn into parts.

Admin wrote:

SuperDave wrote:As at resort consider using the engine for a paper weight. Make lemonade from a "lemon".

Well, I sure would never throw any cox engine part away. I even have busted crankshafts, broken carb bodies and even burnt out glow heads. At the last resort, the engine would turn into parts.

Same, metal prices are high nowadays and even burnt glow heads are very useful and can be converted into diesel heads.

Look what came today!


It has great compression! This is probably a late 1957-early '58 Babe bee. The tank screws came right out with no issue, the glow head came off with no issue but that damn cylinder was and still is on there tight! I do not want to use the wrench as I'm trying to avoid making any marks on the cylinder. I tried several different ways. I tried just soaking it for a few hours in rubbing alcohol, did not loosen, I tried heating up the crankcase, did not work. I tried freezing the cylinder, did not work. I tried freezing the cylinder and heating up the crankcase, did not work. I tried tightening it between 2 pieces of wood and removing it. Tried tightening it between some rubber vice attachments, didn't work. This is one stuck cylinder! I have had cylinders like this and it usually results in me having to use the dang wrench and usually results in some very not so nice looking marks. I have removed cylinders without using a wrench before so I know all those ways work. After thinking about it for awhile, I probably don't even need to remove the cylinder, everything inside looks clean and the piston feels good so maybe I'll just let it be.

Right now the engine is sitting in pieces in a jar of SAE 10 motor oil. Many people have told me it does nothing to help the engine but I do it to get oil in every nook and cranny and also it cleans it up a little (whatever the alcohol did get), makes it shine...

hmmmmm...shiny...
[img] [/img]
its an old "thimble-drome" babe bee, probably just as old as yours, jacob.
when i got it, it looked like this:
[img] [/img]
...pretttty bad...

.

Admin wrote:Look what came today!


It has great compression! This is probably a late 1957-early '58 Babe bee. The tank screws came right out with no issue, the glow head came off with no issue but that damn cylinder was and still is on there tight! I do not want to use the wrench as I'm trying to avoid making any marks on the cylinder. I tried several different ways. I tried just soaking it for a few hours in rubbing alcohol, did not loosen, I tried heating up the crankcase, did not work. I tried freezing the cylinder, did not work. I tried freezing the cylinder and heating up the crankcase, did not work. I tried tightening it between 2 pieces of wood and removing it. Tried tightening it between some rubber vice attachments, didn't work. This is one stuck cylinder! I have had cylinders like this and it usually results in me having to use the dang wrench and usually results in some very not so nice looking marks. I have removed cylinders without using a wrench before so I know all those ways work. After thinking about it for awhile, I probably don't even need to remove the cylinder, everything inside looks clean and the piston feels good so maybe I'll just let it be.

Right now the engine is sitting in pieces in a jar of SAE 10 motor oil. Many people have told me it does nothing to help the engine but I do it to get oil in every nook and cranny and also it cleans it up a little (whatever the alcohol did get), makes it shine...

I say put that sucker on a stand and run a dozen tanks of fuel through it. Maybe the cycles of heating, cooling, good slimy oil, and combined with high-frequency vibration will make it see the light!

Kim wrote:

Admin wrote:Look what came today!


It has great compression! This is probably a late 1957-early '58 Babe bee. The tank screws came right out with no issue, the glow head came off with no issue but that damn cylinder was and still is on there tight! I do not want to use the wrench as I'm trying to avoid making any marks on the cylinder. I tried several different ways. I tried just soaking it for a few hours in rubbing alcohol, did not loosen, I tried heating up the crankcase, did not work. I tried freezing the cylinder, did not work. I tried freezing the cylinder and heating up the crankcase, did not work. I tried tightening it between 2 pieces of wood and removing it. Tried tightening it between some rubber vice attachments, didn't work. This is one stuck cylinder! I have had cylinders like this and it usually results in me having to use the dang wrench and usually results in some very not so nice looking marks. I have removed cylinders without using a wrench before so I know all those ways work. After thinking about it for awhile, I probably don't even need to remove the cylinder, everything inside looks clean and the piston feels good so maybe I'll just let it be.

Right now the engine is sitting in pieces in a jar of SAE 10 motor oil. Many people have told me it does nothing to help the engine but I do it to get oil in every nook and cranny and also it cleans it up a little (whatever the alcohol did get), makes it shine...

I say put that sucker on a stand and run a dozen tanks of fuel through it. Maybe the cycles of heating, cooling, good slimy oil, and combined with high-frequency vibration will make it see the light!

I actually soaked one in warm/hot oil and that freed up a .020.

And now my other ones came!



Rough but usable early 60s Babe Bee .049
Rough but usable series 290 .049
Okay early Pee Wee .020
3 nylon top flite props (I'll get the exact sizes later)
2 Veco wheels
1 front landing gear wheel
1 red spinner
1 Perfect gas tank







To my surprise, the Babe Bee has a intact working "W" filament glow head. Some of the fins in the glow head are bent/smashed but it will hold a spot on my shelf anyway.

NEVER! NEVER! USE PLIERS TO FORCEFULLY TURNOVER A ENGINE! I did not notice any damage to the piston ball/socket from being forced to turn over.



Actually, lets just keep pliers away from these engines. I can't think of any reason to have to use one. If you have to remove a 70s slit cylinder with no top fin milling, there are other ways other then using a pliers.

Great find on the W filament.

microflitedude wrote:Great find on the W filament.

Yeah I've yet to find a W filament.