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Post  SuperDave Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:37 pm

Time and castor oil saturation can take take a terible toll on our models.

I find the use of finishing resin in critical areas to be an excellent saturation preventative and extender of a model's useful life. Certainly not to to be overdone due to weight considerations, Pacer's Z-poxy does a fine job for me when applied prior to butyrate finishes.

Bernie also offers Cox .049 exhaust deflectors (SKU49EXDEF) which I also find very useful. They've been salvaged from Coxes over the years and are in used but serviceable condition.
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Post  Kim Fri Oct 07, 2011 5:00 pm

Agreed ! I call it "Model Airplane Cancer" as the castor and nitro attack the firewall and belly and start loosening up everything. I've also made a concerted effort to always plug the fill tubes to keep raw fuel from sucked out by the propwash and sprayed down the model.
I have to admit that my planes don't always get the best wipe-down after a long day of flying...and THAT is an important part too.

Also...yes...the little exhaust deflectors are one of the least-appreciated (with the most potential for doing good) accessories of these little engines.
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Post  nitroairplane Fri Oct 07, 2011 5:56 pm

this is a problem for these little models but for me the biggest problem is overflow of the tank as that usualy weakens the model behind the firewall and that i probably the worst part that can fail on a model apart from the wins.
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Post  microflitedude Fri Oct 07, 2011 6:08 pm

I have a tanked engine on an open ply firewall on a foam plane. I coated the mount and the underside of the plane with epoxy. The engine has a dragonfly muffler on it that somewhat deflects exhaust. Isn't most of the castor burned off inside the engine?
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Post  nitroairplane Fri Oct 07, 2011 6:11 pm

microflitedude wrote:I have a tanked engine on an open ply firewall on a foam plane. I coated the mount and the underside of the plane with epoxy. The engine has a dragonfly muffler on it that somewhat deflects exhaust. Isn't most of the castor burned off inside the engine?

No a lot of castor does not get burned of usually close to none unless it is real lean that is one of the reasons castor is so good it needs temps of over 800 degrees to burn off completely.
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Post  SuperDave Fri Oct 07, 2011 6:31 pm

nitro:

Also...yes...the little exhaust deflectors are one of the least-appreciated (with the most potential for doing good) accessories of these little engines.[/quote]

The pictures I am about to send show one of my BW's with the said exhaust deflector in place. Look closely and you'll see it. I find no difference in the engine"s RPM with the deflector in place.

BTW, nerd that I am I now have the pictures that I'd like to send to the forum but don't know how. The easiest way would be for you to PM your e-mail address, I would send them to you and then you could post them on the form for me. I have pics most of my Tornado 6X3 props, my BW, my new "Lil Toot" bipe and the mystery cox that I can't identify.

Would you please?
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Post  Kim Fri Oct 07, 2011 7:02 pm

Hey Dave,

Wasn't sure if your note was directed to me or Nitro, but sure, you could send them to my message box here and I'll turn them around and put them in this thread, or I could PM you my email and take them from there.
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Post  SuperDave Fri Oct 07, 2011 7:15 pm

Kim wrote:Hey Dave,

Wasn't sure if your note was directed to me or Nitro, but sure, you could send them to my message box here and I'll turn them around and put them in this thread, or I could PM you my email and take them from there.

My note was to nitro but I'll try sending the pics to you as nitro hasn't answered my PM to him.

Thanks for helping.
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Post  SuperDave Fri Oct 07, 2011 7:24 pm

nitroairplane wrote:this is a problem for these little models but for me the biggest problem is overflow of the tank as that usualy weakens the model behind the firewall and that i probably the worst part that can fail on a model apart from the wins.

nitro:

BTW, please repond to my PM to you re:pictures.

On my current build, a Goldberg/Brodak "Lil Toot" bipe I added a short piece of fuel line to the engine overflow to divert and spillage away from the plane.
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Post  RknRusty Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:40 pm

I paint the firewall and nacelle area with 60 minute Loctite epoxy. I've never had a fuel soak problem. It can get it the screw holes when they start to get reamed from taking the engine on and off or just re-tightening over time. You can clean them out with 98% alcohol and let it completely dry. Then mix a little epoxy and fill the holes using a tool to push it in and fill them up. After it cures, drill a pilot and it'll prevent any more fuel soak.

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Post  nitroairplane Sat Oct 08, 2011 12:16 pm

SuperDave wrote:
nitroairplane wrote:this is a problem for these little models but for me the biggest problem is overflow of the tank as that usualy weakens the model behind the firewall and that i probably the worst part that can fail on a model apart from the wins.

nitro:

BTW, please repond to my PM to you re:pictures.

On my current build, a Goldberg/Brodak "Lil Toot" bipe I added a short piece of fuel line to the engine overflow to divert and spillage away from the plane.

I have.
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