Is a TD .09 a good running engine?

I think it is too big... I have one that I haven't run yet... But rumor is it is a .15 in disguise... I do have a good amount of time with TeeDee .049/.051 (but not recent - coming soon) and it is a BIG difference between those and a reed valve engine. Once I started flying TeeDees (and Medalions) I never flew reeds again. I would try a TD .049... More common. Or how bout a Norvel .061 or .074? There is a guy at the local club that has a Baby Flite Streak with an .061 and it hauls A--! No problem doing the full pattern... I think he is using 45' steel lines, Maybe 52'?...

Just as a point if reference, here is the one I purchased

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160639736058?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_676wt_922

I'm going to try it in a Jr. Ringmaster. I'd like to do 2 in a profile P-38!

I think the power to weight ratio is pretty good.... It is a very light engine - only 1.2 oz more then TD .049

Why not try a diesel?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PREMIER-ENG-A-M-06-DIESEL-R-C-MODEL-AIRPLANE-ENGINE-NEW-BOX-/230681433156?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b5af5444#ht_3725wt_1189

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTM-8-cc-049-CONTROL-LINE-FREE-FLIGHT-DIESEL-MODEL-AIRPLANE-ENGINE-NEW-BOX-/120789091008?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1f9742c0#ht_1423wt_956

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Valentine-Rasant-5-Cyl-Radial-Diesel-Model-Engine-NIB-/310349951122?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48424c7092#ht_1526wt_1395

or maybe this tiny one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Valentines-Nano-Bee-0-006cc-Diesel-Model-Engine-/310349954841?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48424c7f19#ht_1841wt_1189

Wonderful engine and great for Jr. ringmaster. I have two and enjoy them. Stuntman 23 no way. If B/w is not enough get a TD .049/.051. Norvel .049/.061. Larry Renger who worked for Cox likes the AP wasp .061. They convert them to UC. Or try a SPI setup on B/W with hi-compression head. Some claim 20k on these. 25% nitro/ 20% oil/ two head gaskets and should have plenty of power.

dankar04 wrote:Wonderful engine and great for Jr. ringmaster. I have two and enjoy them. Stuntman 23 no way. If B/w is not enough get a TD .049/.051. Norvel .049/.061. Larry Renger who worked for Cox likes the AP wasp .061. They convert them to UC. Or try a SPI setup on B/W with hi-compression head. Some claim 20k on these. 25% nitro/ 20% oil/ two head gaskets and should have plenty of power.

Yeah, great engine and wouldn't hurt to have in your inventory, but might be gross overkill for the Sportsman. Remember that you'll also have the added weight of an external tank and some sort of beam mounting. Bernie has .049 TD cylinder/piston sets, cases, and heavy duty cranks. You could save you B.W. front end, and build up a hotrod engine using it's tank assembly.
Just a thought....

Lots of good answers, thanks. I recently bought a new style SPI piston/cylinder for it, so maybe that will do the job. I haven't tried it yet, but I hear it runs better than the old #1 cylinder. Right now it's got a Killer Bee backplate and a wedge tank.
It's set up with radial mount anyway so a TD might just be more work than I want to do to the tired old beater.
After I get the new Li'l Satan in the air, I'll get back to the Stuntman.
From what y'all say, it sounds like I need a TD .049 for my next build. Maybe I'll build a new Stuntman 23 with a beam mount. I'll have to shop around.
Here's a picture of the old chopper. It used to have a long fuse, now it's a shorty.

Rusty, there are radial mounts for the TD... With and without tanks... Aluminum (or maybe magnesium) and glass filled. Score a TD and I'll send you one... I got 3 in a grab bag... I am thinking about using one on my L'il Satan as it is the path of least resistance.

But back to the TeeDee series.

Simply put, their biggest advantage is the front rotary valve over the reed valve even though more costly to produce (and buy).

Cz10 wrote:Rusty, there are radial mounts for the TD... With and without tanks... Aluminum (or maybe magnesium) and glass filled. Score a TD and I'll send you one... I got 3 in a grab bag... I am thinking about using one on my L'il Satan as it is the path of least resistance.

Okay Cz, if the new SPI doesn't give the BW a boost and I get a TD I'll let you know. Thanks.

I think I might even have a spare (for now) TD .049 you can borrow to try.... let me know.

Cz10 wrote:I think I might even have a spare (for now) TD .049 you can borrow to try.... let me know.

Great, Cz, like I said, if the new SPI doesn't give it a boost I'll be thinking TD. I just realized, I have a brand new crankcase with a brass drive plate and a brand new SPI set and a brand new red Killer Bee backplate. Doesn't that mean I have a brand new Killer Bee?

Cz10 wrote:Rusty, there are radial mounts for the TD... With and without tanks... Aluminum (or maybe magnesium) and glass filled. Score a TD and I'll send you one... I got 3 in a grab bag... I am thinking about using one on my L'il Satan as it is the path of least resistance.

Yeah, thanks for the wake-up CZ!
Sometimes, I just get stuck in the wood-working mode!

RknRusty wrote:I just realized, I have a brand new crankcase with a brass drive plate and a brand new SPI set and a brand new red Killer Bee backplate. Doesn't that mean I have a brand new Killer Bee?

My answer is no, the Killer Bee has a stronger crank. Am I likely to bust my standard Bee crank with the combo I have?

Kim wrote:

Cz10 wrote:Rusty, there are radial mounts for the TD... With and without tanks... Aluminum (or maybe magnesium) and glass filled. Score a TD and I'll send you one... I got 3 in a grab bag... I am thinking about using one on my L'il Satan as it is the path of least resistance.

Yeah, thanks for the wake-up CZ!
Sometimes, I just get stuck in the wood-working mode!

Seems to me the Tatone ones were magnesium. Great material as long as it isn't exposed to fire. I have some wheels for my Porsche that only weigh 9#... they made Porsche transmissions and I believe also engine cases from it... Real ugly if you have an engine fire... You ain't putting it out, at least not easily.... One big road flare!


I think they are still available and they also (in some cases) fit Norvel .049/.061.

RknRusty wrote:

RknRusty wrote:I just realized, I have a brand new crankcase with a brass drive plate and a brand new SPI set and a brand new red Killer Bee backplate. Doesn't that mean I have a brand new Killer Bee?

My answer is no, the Killer Bee has a stronger crank. Am I likely to bust my standard Bee crank with the combo I have?

if you will be doing over 20,000 rpm it is very likely.

nitroairplane wrote:if you will be doing over 20,000 rpm it is very likely.

The new SPI and the KB backplate do run that speed, don't they? I ordered some stuff from Cox Int last night. Maybe I should try to catch them and add a crank before they ship.

[quote="RknRusty"]

nitroairplane wrote:...Maybe I should try to catch them and add a crank before they ship.

Nah, can't afford it this month. What else usually gets destroyed when a crank lunches at 20k?

[quote="RknRusty"]

RknRusty wrote:

nitroairplane wrote:...Maybe I should try to catch them and add a crank before they ship.

Nah, can't afford it this month. What else usually gets destroyed when a crank lunches at 20k?

Not having lived through that experience, at least with a Cox engine (I have broken cranks in automobile engines, however - twice - and they both still ran, just not very well) I'd guess the potential is there to damage the connecting rod (which in this case, would also mean piston due to the design) and/or damage to the crank case...