99 engines......

Regarding the driveplates, i was thinking of turning the flywheel donw a try and use it for driveplate, this is not posible for 1000 engnines though.....
Would love to see a pic of those engines, they must fill something like 1 cubick meter!!!

Regards
Thomas Pedersen

Yeah, not sure about a picture

I have been going box by box.

I was thinking about turning them down as well, but remembered they are steel and like you said turning down that many would take a long while. If you want I could send you a few flywheels for free, just cover shipping. They do not have a lot of practical value. Send me an email sales@exmodelengines.com if so.

Matt

I found that turning the aluminum killer bee drive plates worked the best for the tapered crankshaft car engine. I used a dial indicator to to get the correct angle on the compund rest. Trying to measure the tapered end of the crankshaft and calculating the angle was a futile effort with such a small end any error in measurement would throw the angle off. Also as smooth as cut as possible is needed on the taper. This is also tough as the tool needs to be ground down small and to a point. Maybe a custom tapered reamer would work better. The depth is critical also as too deep and the drive plate will lock against the crankcase. Too shallow and the endplay will be excessive. With the 6 engines I have I had to adjust the depth for the amount of wear that was on the crankcase end to get the correct amount of endplay.



The Medallion or TD 09 drive plate works with the splined shaft car engine. Just need to turn down the back so it matches the crankcase diameter. It is .5".

Jason

crankbndr wrote:Breaking down that many will be a job and a half, they are a bear to get apart.
I have many hours in the 99 i got. Hope you make the drive plates I need a bunch.

Say, are you sill holding the engines I said I would buy? I can hook you up with some $$ as soon as I get back home. I will be getting back home on Tuesday. I was actually trying not to buy anything until this trip (as people may have noticed LOL) but after it is over I'll be back to buying everything LOL.

Thanks, Jacob

Jason_WI wrote:I found that turning the aluminum killer bee drive plates worked the best for the tapered crankshaft car engine. I used a dial indicator to to get the correct angle on the compund rest. Trying to measure the tapered end of the crankshaft and calculating the angle was a futile effort with such a small end any error in measurement would throw the angle off. Also as smooth as cut as possible is needed on the taper. This is also tough as the tool needs to be ground down small and to a point. Maybe a custom tapered reamer would work better. The depth is critical also as too deep and the drive plate will lock against the crankcase. Too shallow and the endplay will be excessive. With the 6 engines I have I had to adjust the depth for the amount of wear that was on the crankcase end to get the correct amount of endplay.



The Medallion or TD 09 drive plate works with the splined shaft car engine. Just need to turn down the back so it matches the crankcase diameter. It is .5".

Jason

I am thinking of going the custom reamer route if I do it myself. I think it would provide a smoother finish more consistently. The end-play is an issue since, as you mentioned, the wear is different on just about every case. Maybe a shim will help to solve this problem. Otherwise it would probably be a pain to custom fit each driveplate.

Matt

EXModelEngines wrote:Maybe a shim will help to solve this problem. Otherwise it would probably be a pain to custom fit each driveplate.
Matt

Maybe an assortment of shims in different thicknesses and a standard driveplate biased towards the loose side? Would have to individually select shims but you could probably (with practise!) be able to pick one without driving the taper all the way home.

Still easier than shimming a bevelhead Ducati!

ahrma_581 wrote:

EXModelEngines wrote:Maybe a shim will help to solve this problem. Otherwise it would probably be a pain to custom fit each driveplate.
Matt

Maybe an assortment of shims in different thicknesses and a standard driveplate biased towards the loose side? Would have to individually select shims but you could probably (with practise!) be able to pick one without driving the taper all the way home.

Still easier than shimming a bevelhead Ducati!

I might have them manufactured. In that case all the driveplates will be standard so providing a shim (thickness to be determined) with anybody who orders a driveplate seems to be the most realistic option.

I cannot even imagine shimming the Ducatti

Matt

EXModelEngines wrote:I cannot even imagine shimming the Ducatti

Matt

I think large quantities of vino lubricates the process.

ok, i have the funds now. Ill take 5 of the $5 ones, how much would it be shipped?

crankbndr wrote:This one cleaned up well

looks great, how do you remove the exsaust deflector?

You have to remove the cylinder, it slides off the bottom. Most are stuck and need soaking and or heat.

ok, ill soak my cylinders tonight

Not much left, don't want to see a car engine for a long time. Things I'll never need again,glow heads and copper gaskets ,crankcase gaskets, #1 cylinders, pistons
Horseshoe backplates. Cannibalized nearly every engine for parts, did not sell one engine on Ebay but folks paid more for parts than they could have bought the engine
for. The exhaust collectors sold like hotcakes, they must be used for something other than cars. I made about 150$ for about 40 hours work, spent 100s in shipping and fees
and countless trips to PO. Glad there gone!

I think I bought some of your backplates just to get the copper reeds. I wasn't a member of this forum at the time. Selling stuff on ebay can be a pain because of all the boxing of items and trips to the post office.

Just out of curiousity, where do all these used engines come from? Were they factory seconds? They appear to have been run. Was this the intitial run after being manufactured?

If you want more reeds I'll send some unrun ones free. Let me know.
Thats another thing I'll never need again.

lousyflyer wrote:I think I bought some of your backplates just to get the copper reeds. I wasn't a member of this forum at the time. Selling stuff on ebay can be a pain because of all the boxing of items and trips to the post office.

Just out of curiousity, where do all these used engines come from? Were they factory seconds? They appear to have been run. Was this the intitial run after being manufactured?

About 30% were never fueled but they were mounted in a model and removed for some reason, maybe at Cox, others were run but not much, must have been returned to Cox.
I do not think the SPI cylinders would work well with the exhaust collectors.

If I am not mistaken the beryllium reeds are no longer manufactured beause their production is hazardous to the health of the employees. I don't think they will be a problem for me to use. PM on the way.

i wouldent mind a cpl of complete engines as well as a few exhaust collectors if you have any left ?

Did you used brake cleaner to clean the engines?

I used fuel on my engines.

Took a staff member 15 hours to disassemble and clean 50 engines

Engines and parts are now for sale here:

http://coxengines.ca/car-engines-parts/

[quote="microflitedude]
Pun intended.

I have an Enya .35, and eventually want to get a hold of an RC .09[/quote]

PM on the way...

i havea a Enya 049 rc..it needs a new piston/liner tho..it wus a lot of fun