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Post  roddie Tue Jan 09, 2024 8:35 pm

GallopingGhostler wrote:

Just curious if anyone else does this. After replacing, took the old switch apart to salvage the screws holding it together.
I do this....buy parts I do not need........ - Page 2 2024-017

I separate these into small spare screws and washers bins. Then when I need, sort through these to find a fastern I need. Sometimes when a plastic hole has been stripped out, I find another screw slightly larger in diameter to make up the need.


I'll do it... if I see hardware that's easily removed.. it's a "no brainer"..

We may have an item that we enjoy using.. which has parts that can wear-out. We will likely source any spare parts while available; to maintain its usefulness.

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Post  Oldenginerod Wed Jan 10, 2024 3:44 am

Yep, I generally do the same, but you will often find that many appliences use security headed screws such as Tri-Wing and security Torx (with the pin in the middle). Some even use a 5 lobe Torx. Easy to work around though because cheap bit kits are readily available.
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Post  GallopingGhostler Wed Jan 10, 2024 6:53 am

Regarding the security head screws, by my collecting screws, at times in the past I have simply replaced these securities with standard head of the same size and thread, from my junk screw bin.

Thus endeth the hassle next time around. But, my junk screw bin has saved me on a number of occasions on just about everything. Taking apart an elliptical exerciser, fix a missing fastener or in removal, it took some of the plastic thread with it. Upsize or increase length a touch with the replacement, and it is good as new. Helped on electronics, too, like radios, tape recorders, clock-radios, etc.

Also have used them to repair toys. Thus, they will come in handy during say, repairing that RTF airplane or car.

Here's a baby food jar full of fasteners for computer motherboards, cards and cases.

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Post  cstatman Wed Jan 10, 2024 9:27 am

the inside of your junk bin screw babyfood jar?

is spot on metaphor for the inside of my garage.
I need this, I can re-use that, no one makes these anymore, i must keep this tool for this specific application... etc.

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Post  rsv1cox Sat Jan 13, 2024 10:47 am

Turns out I need those parts anyway to build an engine for my 14" wingspread Spad busted up model made by - yet to be determined.

I gave them a Berrymans bath and warm soapy water dip followed by a clean water rinse. Got out my .020 parts and found enough to build one complete engine. I could build two more if I had the backplates which are not available through Matt and Bernie.

Assembled just to see if there were any problems, hoggedout threads etc. Seems ok, but a long way from being finished.

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Post  rsv1cox Sun Jan 14, 2024 8:00 am

I tried the JBW repair on the worst one with the largest hole. Painters tape backed up with tissue paper. Pressed into the hole then pressed up from inside the tank a bit to squish it out around the inside of the hole. Let it cure for a few hours then smoothed it out with water on a fingertip. More cure.

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Post  rsv1cox Sun Jan 14, 2024 3:55 pm

JBW repair. Sorry for the poor pictures.

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This was the only fuel tank with the Thimble Drome stamp. If I had waited another hour for it to cure I could have done a perfect job rubbing it out with water on a finger tip but I was tired and started to "draw" the JBW out of the hole.
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Post  Oldenginerod Sun Jan 14, 2024 4:35 pm

rsv1cox wrote:I tried the JBW repair on the worst one with the largest hole.  Painters tape backed up with tissue paper.  Pressed into the hole then pressed up from inside the tank a bit to squish it out around the inside of the hole.  Let it cure for a few hours then smoothed it out with water on a fingertip.  More cure.  

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Personally, I think I would just use a snug fitting rubber blanking grommet. The Castor oil shouldn't react with the rubber and if positioned at the highest point, should have no issue with leakage.
When I see JB Weld used, I worry about small pieces breaking free and lodging where they shouldn't

Rod.
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