Tee Dee 010 tank discoloration

Hi Andras, these fuel tanks were used? If they are unused new fuel tanks, then try to rub with silicone grease. Sometimes plastics especially delrin can be oxided within time.

Thanks for the tip Levent, I will try (BTW I was in the Levent district of Istanbul this week, visiting customers Enka and Cslik Energy!!)

What has worked well for me is using the Dremel buffing kit, or you can purchase the felt tip heads separately?
Then what you need is the "plastic" polishing compound which is "blue" in color.

I purchased on Amazon a small kit of polishing compounds for the Dremel buffing kit.
There are 6-piece polishing and buffing compounds and are 1 oz. each (for small jobs for $16.00)



Identification of buffing compounds in the photo above (top center and moving clockwise):
Brownish-red --- Soft metals like brass, aluminum, copper
White --- Hard metals and stainless steel
Black --- All metallic surfaces
Light Green --- Best for stainless steel
Light Blue --- Non-ferrous metals, plastics, synthetic materials
Blackish-red --- rough metallic surfaces with deep gouges (aluminum, steel, copper, brass, and similar metals)

So, what you are looking for is the "blue" buffing compound.
I used it on my car's head lights to remove the cloudiness off the lens and it worked out well.
I used a bigger buffing wheel like a very furry ball and the blue compound. Just don't stay in one spot for too long!

As for your plastic tanks it should do the same?

Thank you Sosam...the tanks look like they were bleached by extended exposure to sunlight, as if the color component of the plastic had evaporated..so it is not a surface dullness like the car headlights worn by numerous car wash abrasion. The tank surface is smooth and shiny, but the color is patched in white..

balogh wrote:Thank you Sosam...the tanks look like they were bleached by extended exposure to sunlight, as if the color component of the plastic had evaporated..so it is not a surface dullness like the car headlights worn by numerous car wash abrasion. The tank surface is smooth and shiny, but the color is patched in white..

Another thing you could try is to dye them a "red" color and see what happens?
I use to do that with the clear canopies on my airplanes with Rit dye.

That might be another option.

If you have a red marker, try to color that "white" section and see what happens.
It is similar to using the red dye idea.

The problem you are experiencing is typical for the age of the engine. The white haze you see is actually where the plastic has dried out. The haze can be scraped away, but will leave imperfections. The only real fix is a replacement tank and they are readily available last I checked.

Thanks Sosam and Ron..

The only place red 010 tanks are listed today are on Mecoa web page, but even there they are sold out. Matt sells black tanks of later production, but my preference would be the genuine red. Bernie's site does not carry them now.. Where did you see them currently available, possibly in red?

If the haze means dried out area, can some boiling water treatment like for old propellers help partially restore elasticity of plastic? If not the color, at least it's functionality would be important..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272044481797?epid=730363924&hash=item3f571d5d05:g:obsAAOSwYaFWfE7M says 10 available out of Cal. on eBay

Thanks, Eric, but these are for the 020, also posted on the Mecoa site www.mecoa.com

oH my God more coffee ! Sorry i was looking to see if they were in stock

No problem, Eric, it is Sunday and early morning, I also need to be primed on coffee before performing

balogh wrote:I have a few good but dull/discolored red fuel tanks for my TeeDee010 engines. Is there a proven method to restore their original red color by e.g. boiling them in hot water or similar?

I will appreciate a good solution, thank you.

By the way, with its discolored plastic parts, I give you an idea that in some cases is very favorable to me.
Go to a butcher shop and buy lard, with half a kilo you will be more than fine.
Take a pot with the pork fat (solid DO NOT HEAT) and soak the parts in the pork fat for 24 hours.
Remove after that time and clean the pieces with a cloth.
Tell me if it was satisfactory or not.

I am just thinking of submerging them for a few days in glow fuel that has a reddish color due to the castor in it..maybe fuel will soak the dry plastic even more than thick lard?

balogh wrote:I am just thinking of submerging them for a few days  in glow fuel that has a reddish color due to the castor in it..maybe fuel will soak the dry plastic even more than thick lard?

Wash parts with alcohol, and dry well. Use only pork fat.
The parts must be clean, totally clean.
Then dip the pieces in pork fat and wait 24 hours.

balogh wrote:Thanks Sosam and Ron..

The only place red 010 tanks are listed today are on Mecoa web page, but even there they are sold out. Matt sells black tanks of later production, but my preference would be the genuine red. Bernie's site does not carry them now.. Where did you see them  currently available, possibly in red?

If the haze means dried out area, can some boiling water treatment  like for old propellers help partially restore elasticity of plastic? If not the color, at least it's functionality would be important..

It’s been a while since I have looked for parts, you may very well be correct that none are currently available. My thought was MECOA. So if you are saying they are NLA then that might be the case.

Plastic is an oil based product. Boiling it will probably not give you the desired results.

Even if you can’t find new there are several sources to find good used. There are a lot of parts are out there still.

Thanks, Ron, not a chemist, but I also belive some organic matter needs to be embedded into the structure of dry plastic to make up for the loss of its components while drying and ageing..maybe ordinary animal fat will help as Mauricio suggests? Or castor from fuel as I am guessing? We will see..

You may have a bottle of white vinegar in the pantry. I have a bottle of distilled white vinegar that is comes diluted with water to 5% acidity. It is used for cleaning/canning/cooking.

Years ago I was tasked with the removal of 100 plastic (decorative) window shutters from a 50-room hotel where I worked, to repaint them. I sought the advice of a painter who was an "old-timer".. that recommended spraying the shutters with white vinegar and scrubbing with a stiff-bristled brush to penetrate "chalking", dirt and leave the surface clean and ready for a primer-coat after rinsing with water. This worked quite well.

Maybe try soaking the tank in a teacup of it.. and then maybe see if a toothbrush will remove the discoloration?

Thanks for the tip, Roddie, will give it a try..the white haze does not look like foreign material that acids will bleach, though..it is just a discolored area of the parent material...but all ideas are appreciated and worth the try..

Hi balogh,

Not sure of the actual plastic in the .010 tank,
but this worked for me on similar plastics.
Toluol. Contact cement thinner. It stinks, if you have the right stuff.
It does not 'melt' the plastic, but will erase the scum you want to remove.
Polish/ wax from there.
Worked for me. (not on a Cox.010 tank )
Dave

P.S. I want to go and fly 1/2A with MauricioB !
Warm pork fat and smoked Castor oil,
Are on on my top ten,
List of smells...
4 and 9

HalfaDave wrote:Hi balogh,

Not sure of the actual plastic in the .010 tank,
but this worked for me on similar plastics.
Toluol. Contact cement thinner. It stinks, if you have the right stuff.
It does not 'melt' the plastic, but will erase the scum you want to remove.
Polish/ wax from there.
Worked for me. (not on a Cox.010 tank )
Dave

P.S.  I want to go and fly 1/2A with MauricioB !
Warm pork fat and smoked Castor oil,
Are on on my top ten,
List of smells...
4 and 9

I know that toluol is a disaster for plastics Plastic kits cement ?

Hi Levent,

I agree.
Your results may vary !
Styrene plastic and toluene do not mix...

I doubt that Cox plastic tanks were made from styrene... Next level plastics , I think.
Could be wrong,
Dave

P.S. If it does not react to acetone, toluol, is the next test....

HalfaDave wrote:Hi Levent,

I agree.
Your results may vary !
Styrene plastic and toluene do not mix...

I doubt that Cox plastic tanks were made from styrene... Next level plastics , I think.
Could be wrong,
Dave

P.S.  If it does not react to acetone, toluol, is the next test....

Testors plastic cement ingredients are toluene and polystyrene

https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/3501X.pdf

HalfaDave wrote:
P.S.  I want to go and fly 1/2A with MauricioB !
Warm pork fat and smoked Castor oil,
Are on on my top ten,
List of smells...
4 and 9

mediodave, hahaha....I like your comment!!!, look what I'm doing :-)
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t10146-p51-mustang-by-kyosho-restorationand-flight-video#219340