Tee Dee Starter Spring Ideas

Is your TeeDee starter spring the same as what Bernie sells?

https://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-snap-starter-spring-tee-dee.html

Other than the less than 1.5 turns with this spring possible, I think it works fine and will not be eaten by the prop..

I recall having to deal with this problem during a TD tach race I CD’d. Seems it was a 50/50 chance of the prop catching the spring. I did notice the spring is much larger than it needs to be. Smaller coils would keep it wound tighter to the front end reduce vibration.

My solution was to remove the spring. They start easily enough without them.

Thanks Ken, I will give the glow plug washers a try!
Hey getback, I pulled the motor apart to check it and the carb body survived!  It must just be crap on it in the photo nut its still a good one!  the prop was balanced but, I mounted the engine on a scrap of 3 ply that was G clamped to another piece of wood and the 3 ply was bending like a diving board Maybe that didnt help.  I will also try as Getback suggested and just bend the spring a little. Balough the springs were the ones from Bernie, I dont know where else to get them anyway and my assumption is this is a problem caused by Me "Gary" not the springs or lots of people might be comenting previously and I couldnt find any. One day I might start them without a spring as Ron sugests but for now once I fix the problem which I think he appliation of everyones ideas will result in, all will be good again.

Thanks for all the help!

Cheers,
Gary

Change prop its wat hapen wit one of m'y spring using cox 6x3 change for mutch thiner hub prop center thin Not like the cox prop and change the ventury carburetor body is now crack that larger mufler wont fit no chance it work corect wit the spring tee dee only use the gtp exaust collector manifold wit lots of litle modification To the parts it self or it wont fit. only the older exaust collector from for cars or the Snowmobile engine use the correct parts to fit tee dee engine without modification look

The gtp collector is ok for the tee dee engine fit same way point same direction

Tink if change for médalion ventury body it may work Good wit the spring and that larger exaust just change carb body for médalion as now the one on the engine is broken now u have To change so wy Not try wit difrent carb body the medalion used that large rc exaust ring like on the first gtp cars its the parts u nead To change wit tee dee for médalion one or just change al the exaust setup and exaust colector is Not silencer it self it nead pipe like that one y have made m'y self it work Good wit gain in performance

Goodaye David,

Thanks for your input and ideas. Yes i had looked and wondered about the prop and if that could be part of the solution. Also agree with you about the muffler not being a proper muffler, I had looked at some of the others but I think I can mod these standard available mufflers to do the job, they do muffle, but they do drop performance a little bit, but that doesnt bother me really. But muffling is important to me, mind you modding with a pipe added would muffle even better as you have done. The medallion carb bodies are a good idea also. I am going to try drilling a standard venturi and putting a spray bar through it after blocking the three venturi holes and see how it goes, that would make a lot of space and be very simple if it works. Im sure between all these options and little tweaks yourself and others have suggested I will end up with it working as I would like. And as Ron said, I can always start it without a spring!

Cheers,
Gary

Thanks to the input of all those that responded and some deeper searching I did on my TD spring problem I have found a solution that works and was easy to do. I used two washers from standard 1/4" glow plugs, used my dremel to grind away the underside leading edge of the NVB (which was upside down due to the muffler.) removed the ratchet spring on the NVB and used silicon tubing to seal it and stop it moving (do this on all my engines), used my dremel to sand down the nose of the engine, the front of the carb body and the collet  and also ensure where the carb body and collet meet that there is no ridge at all. spring is now free and doesnt touch anything it shouldnt and doesnt bind when it retracts. Bent the spring a bit where it fits on the carb body lug, to get a bit more pull back tension.

All works really well, easy to do, when you know what to do, like most things. All of the things I did were bits and pieces of advice and suggestions from people on this forum.  Thats what I love, some stuff Im quite sure about and I just do it, other stuff I sorta think, Ive wrecked a couple springs now, I reckon others on the forum over the years will also have come across this, and ask the question. Lots of different advice and ideas and it all comes together and solves the problem. Some call it engineering. The physical work is not the engineering, the exchange of ideas and experience etc. to produce a solution IS the engineering.  I work sooo hard at teaching that to Grads. Lol.

Thanks to all who helped!!!!  

Cheers,
Gary