Here. Hold my beer.

Well, isn't that the neatest thing I saw today! Great job on it, and it sounds like a very angry Bee....

Nice inline look like engine

Well, if that isn't the darndest. X2 on what Ron said.

Liked it, but as it's near Halloween and the title of this thread, I'm here just for the boo's.

Cool Mark , I am in for the ride

How are you going to adjust the cylinder and fly at the same time? Your going to look awfully funny running in circles trying to get the cylinder adjusted. All kidding aside, that's cool

Cribbs74 wrote:Good job! Care to explain the inner workings? Trying to wrap my head around you needling with the cylinder.

Ron

Yes, this is interesting.

Adjusting the back cylinder meters the air through the threads, but that must mean that you have the exhaust ports blocked off. Where's the reed? Is there a reed? How did you mate the two cases? Your idea?

got some splaining to do.......or am I way off base. Probably! Inquiring minds want to know.

Haha that's great! It just needs a substantial spring somewhere to keep that cylinder in check.

rsv1cox wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:Good job! Care to explain the inner workings? Trying to wrap my head around you needling with the cylinder.

Ron

Yes, this is interesting.

Adjusting the back cylinder meters the air through the threads, but that must mean that you have the exhaust ports blocked off.  Where's the reed?  Is there a reed?  How did you mate the two cases?  Your idea?

got some splaining to do.......or am I way off base. Probably!   Inquiring minds want to know.  

My understanding of the original one I saw was that a standard plastic backplate (with reed etc) was sandwiched between the two crankcases and just trimmed down to the same outside profile. The rear crankcase is effectively just to house the intake system. Mark's taken the concept a little further by connecting the rear cylinder to the needle valve some how.

That makes sense Rod. Epoxy the needle to the inside of the cylinder. Would love to see a working inline 4 or 6! It might be possible.

Cribbs74 wrote:That makes sense Rod. Epoxy the needle to the inside of the cylinder. Would love to see a working inline 4 or 6! It might be possible.

So, are we going to have a contest on how many crankcases, cylinders and glow heads we can waste to see who can have the longest inline working (1 cylinder) engine?

Confused Happydad

happydad wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:That makes sense Rod. Epoxy the needle to the inside of the cylinder. Would love to see a working inline 4 or 6! It might be possible.

So, are we going to have a contest on how many crankcases, cylinders and glow heads we can waste to see who can have the longest inline working (1 cylinder) engine?

Confused Happydad

Not likely, it would be a feat of engineering to accomplish. I was just saying it would be neat to see. I mentioned an inline working engine and not 3 dummy cylinders.

Even if it was 3 dummy cylinders it would be more than my lifetime before the world would be depleted of Cox engines. If you think these engines are valuable to anyone but us and collectors you are mistaken. In 50 yrs very few of us will be around who even know what these things are. Use em like you stole em! Before they become land fill.

Cribbs74 wrote:

happydad wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:That makes sense Rod. Epoxy the needle to the inside of the cylinder. Would love to see a working inline 4 or 6! It might be possible.

So, are we going to have a contest on how many crankcases, cylinders and glow heads we can waste to see who can have the longest inline working (1 cylinder) engine?

Confused Happydad

Not likely, it would be a feat of engineering to accomplish. I was just saying it would be neat to see. I mentioned an inline working engine and not 3 dummy cylinders.

Even if it was 3 dummy cylinders it would be more than my lifetime before the world would be depleted of Cox engines. If you think these engines are valuable to anyone but us and collectors you are mistaken. In 50 yrs very few of us will be around who even know what these things are. Use em like you stole em! Before they become land fill.

Ron: i just wanted to hear someone else say it. My sentiments EXACTLY.

HAPPYDAD                              

I think it would look nice sitting on the nose of one of these, the Fokker without the cowling.



But flying? Not so nice. Why drag around all that non-productive weight for no gain other than visual. On the other hand, experiment gets many points. Love to see a picture of the innards.

rsv1cox wrote:Inquiring minds want to know.  

I had thought more people would want to know. But with only one thumbs up on the original post, I guess there's not much interest. One would think there would be a lot more likes if everyone wanted to see how this was done...

The Influencer Mark

batjac wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:Inquiring minds want to know.  

I had thought more people would want to know.  But with only one thumbs up on the original post, I guess there's not much interest.  One would think there would be a lot more likes if everyone wanted to see how this was done...

The Influencer Mark

Well Mark, don't let that stop you from "spilling the beans". Clicking the thumbs up is the last thing I'd think of. I doubt it's an accurate indication of the level of interest!
I must say, the use of the Goldberg mount is a good idea. I'm guessing that having the needle extend into the cylinder rather than out the side of the case like the other one makes for a neater appearance. Just needs one hole for the fuel line, correct?

Also, did you just slice the nose of the case off? I wondered if the original one I posted about might have used the nose of the rear case as an "air horn", neatly machined into a trumpet shape to look more authentic. The two cases back to back, right?

Rod.

I gave two greenies so far for the top secret answer to how you hookes the needle stem to the cly. and another one for the answer to the cyl vibrating answer I like the concept of the idea for the adjustment,, I also want to see it in the air !!

batjac wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:Inquiring minds want to know.  

I had thought more people would want to know.  But with only one thumbs up on the original post, I guess there's not much interest.  One would think there would be a lot more likes if everyone wanted to see how this was done...

The Influencer Mark

I hurried back up top and added a greenie Mark, more of a kick in the butt than a pat on the back..... in an attempt to get you to open up.

Like Rod, I seldom give greenies. Not that I don't think 99.9% pf the threads here don't deserve one it just doesn't cross my mind.

Come on Mark, what's behind the curtain.

Heck i gave you one for a good laugh

getback wrote:Heck i gave you one for a good laugh

A good laugh and a kick in the butt, will it yield results.....

No disrespect intended Mark, I read and enjoy all your posts.

Bob

Okay, Y’all twisted my arm.  Here’s how I did it.

Pulling out my .049 Bee parts box to see what I could use.  I decided to splurge on this build and pulled out a brand new crankcase, a brand new product engine piston and cylinder set, and a brand new glow head (which the video shows promptly burning out).  For the donor case, I dug out a thin nose case that had a bent drive plate.  Obviously at some time in the past the engine suffered a pretty hard crash to physically bend the drive plate.  I drove out the crankshaft and saved it for later.  This project also finally gives me a chance to use something I’ve been sitting on for a while.  About four years ago at a swap meet I picked up a box of Cox parts, and in it was a reed valve assembly.  It’s an Avion reed valve assembly like in this thread (anyone-ever-seen-one-of-these).  I had thought about a few ways to eventually use it, but this project seemed perfect for the assembly.  I took a new crank case gasket and cut off the four ears and it was a perfect fit for the assembly.




The first thing I did was cut off the nose of the donor crank case and file the face down smooth and even.  Then I drilled out the four screw holes all the way from the front to the back, a little larger than stock to allow the screws to slide easily through them.




I slid the reed valve assembly into the forward case to make sure it was going to do what I wanted.  Then I put the CC gasket on and assembled the two cases with a Goldberg mount from the parts box.  I was right when I said that the 8cc tank screws would probably work for this.  Pulling out four new screws from my rebuild supplies and screwing them in showed that the screws were just a little bit long.  A few minutes with a file solved that problem.  The Carl Goldberg mount cutout for the postage stamps was perfect for the opening in the rear case.






To be continued….

The Inventive Mark

That makes good use of the Avion reed valve assembly for sure another greene

Pretty nifty Mark. So how did you attach the needle to the rear cylinder?

Bob

rsv1cox wrote:Pretty nifty Mark.  So how did you attach the needle to the rear cylinder?

Bob