adding oil to fuels

nitros wrote:just out of interest does anyone know if 3 in 1 mineral oil would work

I associate 3M with lubricating oil rather than mineral oil. I'm sure that mineral oil would "work" in our engines but how well I dunno.

You can be the pioneer and make the experiment then we can learn from YOU! What NOBLE and BRAVE adventure!

SD

SuperDave wrote:

nitros wrote:just out of interest does anyone know if 3 in 1 mineral oil would work

I associate 3M with lubricating oil rather than mineral oil. I'm sure that mineral oil would "work" in our engines but how well I dunno.

You can be the pioneer and make the experiment then we can learn from YOU! What NOBLE and BRAVE adventure!

SD

You can use olive oil I did it's fine but castor is best

Generally, mineral oil will not dissolve in alcohol (methanol) or castor oil without a secondary solvent. If you have either pure methanol available or perhaps even glow fuel, you might try adding a few drops to an small amount in a glass container and see if it falls to the bottom or appears to disperse.

andrew

i think i will but i hope it might not go white and foamy like it does in my steam engine when i once used it on it. the broken down oil might smother the engine but i think that is caused by the steam so i might pre apply it to the engine by directly applying it to the moving parts by taking the back of the engine off for a while until i get some castor oil

ill do that test right away andrew

Another thing to look into is the flashpoint of the oils and out of all discussed castor has te highest so does not burn of whereas thing like canola oil can if the engine is run slightly on the lean side.

nitroairplane wrote:Another thing to look into is the flashpoint of the oils and out of all discussed castor has te highest so does not burn of whereas thing like canola oil can if the engine is run slightly on the lean side.

Klotz lists the flash point of their BeNOL product (castor with additives) as 555F. Their original TechniPlate (all synthetic) flashes at 460F.

In the early days of steel-steel construction engines, we knew that castor had two advantageous properties that saved a lot of engines. During lean runs, it continued to lubricate. Today, we know that castor will polymerize at higher temperatures, that is, it will actually bond to form larger molecules (becomes a better lube) that help separate moving parts. Secondly, because of a high flash point, castor carried a lot of heat out the exhaust --- liquid cooling, if you will. With synthetics flashing off at lower temps, lubrication dissappears and the burning actually contributes to increased heat. Although the thermal conductivity of aluminum is nearly a magnitude higher than steel, it still cannot overcome the efficiency of dumping heat via a liquid (castor oil). I expect George (gcb), like me, has burned his hand a number of times due to hot castor oil being blown out the exhaust.

Nitros

Mineral oil in your steam engine became white and frothy because it is not water soluble.

I have also been burned by castor oil from exhaust especially when I used castor in an rc car.