Help...I'm not understanding this auction.

Well worth it for 6 .010's even if it's the later Leisure Industries edition.  I have just one in .049 but they don't get much love.

Wish I had seen it.

I guess my bottom line question is - is my Camel 1:35 scale too? Looks it.

Bob. The SPAD looks to be a static die-cast model. I doubt it's what you're looking for.

Oldenginerod wrote:Bob. The SPAD looks to be a static die-cast model.  I doubt it's what you're looking for.

Could be Rod, a lot of his other stuff is die cast.

I may have just bought Christmas presents for my great grand sons.

Ha Ha i have about done this and just had to look it up !!
O'hea Enjoy its all in Fun !!

gkamysz wrote:Hard to say. Did anyone here win this listing? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-010-Tee-Dee-Glow-Engine-NIB-quantity-6/113887156355? Did you get 6?

I did not see that Man did you get them??? even if not as advertised get $$ back !!

getback wrote:Ha Ha i have about done this and just had to look it up !!
 O'hea Enjoy its all in Fun !!

Thanks Eric, part of what I was looking for.  Saved it.

Not going to help me with that wheel.  I have used a hole saw to cut out a 1 1/4" wheel from pine.  Probably won't work either, as the pilot drill bit makes the axle hole to large and I can't seem to bush it down.  I do have some yellow plastic that I can use for a hubcap though.  Just got to think about it.

Bob.
Here's plans for a Neuport 11 with instructions on making the sort of wheel you need.

RSV Bob,
What is the wheel diameter? Those wooden wheels of Roddie's may be an adequate substitute. Drill out the hub, sand down the "hubcap" and wheel back-side, and paint (dope) away until it looks like what you have.

I can send a matched pair your way...

It wouldn’t surprise me if Testors re-used the molds to make plastic static model kits.

Bob, whenever I make a wheel using a holesaw as you have tried, I use a piece of 3/4" stock and set the pilot bit just protruding past the teeth. Put the holesaw in a drill press and start drilling. Once the teeth are into the stock, remove the pilot bit and continue drilling. Don't drill all the way through but drill it fairly deep. I then take a piece of 1/4" tubing and insert it into the pilot bit hole. I have a Starrett auto center punch which fits the ID of the aluminum tubing perfectly and punch a prick mark into the wood. This will retain the center of the piece later. Rip the desired thickness for the wheel and you now have a wheel without a 1/4" hole in it. Now you can drill the wheel to the desired axle size using the prick mark.

getback wrote:

gkamysz wrote:Hard to say. Did anyone here win this listing? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-010-Tee-Dee-Glow-Engine-NIB-quantity-6/113887156355? Did you get 6?

 I did not see that Man did you get them??? even if not as advertised get $$ back !!

No, I happened across the listing while checking sold listings for some reason or another. The seller has sold several individually since, so who knows.

getback wrote:

gkamysz wrote:Hard to say. Did anyone here win this listing? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-010-Tee-Dee-Glow-Engine-NIB-quantity-6/113887156355? Did you get 6?

 I did not see that Man did you get them??? even if not as advertised get $$ back !!

The seller deleted the Ebay posting due to wrong wording! Here’s his response to my Inquiry:


Anyone interested in one at $100 each?

First, thanks to everybody for your responses.  

This is getting complicated.  Hole saws cut to the outside diameter.  Extracting the inner cut from the saw yields something about an eighth of an inch less.  I could make it wider by adding a tread but that doesn't always work, just ask Roddie.  

I have rethought the hub hole and have decided just to dowel it and re-drill to the proper size, paint the wheel black then add a fashioned yellow cone like the original out of hard balsa.  

Both of these cuts are trial pieces.





The plane cleaned up pretty well using just diluted Windex on a soft cotton cloth then wiped dry.  First layer anyway, still need to glue down the exposed edges of the decals, re-string the wings guy wires, and polish up a bit.  It should be display case worthy when finished.  

I would be interested in one of the .010's Rene simply because I would like to complete the set, but they are not looked upon with favor.  Kind of like a Chevrolet 210 instead of the Bel-air.

I have the base Babe Bee as checked on the package.  Others are the 150 Black Widow and 4506 Texaco.



Just had an idea.  Using the larger piece, pass a 1/4" machine screw through the hole secure it with a nut, chuck it up in the drill press and using a wood file work it down to 1/ 1/4" and round it off to resemble a tire...…..Then paint, cone, and I'm done.

rsv1cox wrote:  

Hole saws cut to the outside diameter.  Extracting the inner cut from the saw yields something about an eighth of an inch less.  I could make it wider by adding a tread but that doesn't always work, just ask Roddie.  

I have rethought the hub hole and have decided just to dowel it and re-drill to the proper size, paint the wheel black then add a fashioned yellow cone like the original out of hard balsa.  

Just had an idea.  Using the larger piece, pass a 1/4" machine screw through the hole secure it with a nut, chuck it up in the drill press and using a wood file work it down to 1/ 1/4" and round it off to resemble a tire...…..Then paint, cone, and I'm done.

You'd no-doubt enjoy making a replacement wheel as-per the above.

I see that the original style wheel is a snap-fit onto the spindle. Is there as much neg. camber on the opposing spindle/wheel?



Be sure to guage the thickness of a replacement-wheel to account for retaining-prongs on the end of the spindle. The wheel-hub "bore" should also be sized to allow for fitting over the prongs while also allowing for any "swelling" of a wooden (replacement) wheel. If the spindle was engineered to accept a common size wheel-hub (IE 3/16").. it would be wise to "sleeve" the hub of a wooden wheel with that size "ID" alloy-tubing.

The wooden wheels that I bought recently are 1-1/8" diameter x 3/16" thickness.



They're a very similar profile.. except that their "cone/cap" is integral, rather than a separate hubcap. A "pair" of mine wouldn't look terribly out-of-scale.. but there's the matter of those "prongs" on the end of the spindles. You'd still want to cover/hide those.. I'm sure.

Cone/caps cap be easily made from "index-card-stock" by cutting circles slightly smaller than your wheels' diameter.. and cutting to the center with scissors. Overlap at the cut to form a cone.

I made my custom biplane wheels this way.




The amount of overlap will determine the finish-OD and the "height" for clearing any spindle-protrusion. Sizing the OD for the cone/cap is a matter of trial and error.. but can be done with scrap-paper. A circle-template is an ideal tool to have handy for jobs like this.

Thanks Roddie, that's exactly the information I need to make the cone.

The wheel has to be 1 1/4" or there is a lean. Yes, there is more negative camber on that side than the other, attributable to the weight of the engine over time on that side I would think. I will try to correct it by the application of a little heat.

Made a wheel with some success. Wood rasp to size, then sandpaper. Now to paint it satin black and fashion a cone and paint it yellow or maybe find some yellow construction paper or use a yellow plastic margarine containers top.

With any luck, all of those kits will still have slots for pipe bombs and provisions for bell crank mounting still inside of fuselage shells.

WOW! I really like your concentric "rasp" application via the use of a mechanic's socket-wrench. I will adopt that technique in the future.

roddie wrote:WOW! I really like your concentric "rasp" application via the use of a mechanic's socket-wrench. I will adopt that technique in the future.

Yeah, the 1 1/4" socket was just a convenient measuring device because I was to lazy to go back in the house to get my calipers.  I used the drill press (top picture) and the wood rasp to work it down, occasionally checking it with the socket until it fit.  Which is probably what you meant.

I still have to sand (by hand) both sides down to get the profile of the original before I paint and use your technique to do the hub.

Bob