Fredvon4 sent me a tee dee and I didn’t know!?

KK NVA also. Nice!

Yeah, looks to be a TD .051 Really nice!

Yeppers, I saw the groove on the piston too. Nice score. Also, is the green propeller kind of translucent? Is there a name on it? Those were neat looking, but cannot remember the manufacturer.

Jason_WI wrote:KK NVA also. Nice!

What’s KK NVA??

Thank you soooo much Fred, I don’t know how to repay you, if you need anything please don’t hesitate to ask me!!!

This is an .051 because the piston won’t fit into an .049 cylinder. Therefore I too do believe this is an TeeDee.051.

It has duel fuel boost ports also. I can’t believe the generosity of you fantastic awesome people on this forum. I’m so thankful and I feel I owe you guys. Thank you.

New222 I will answer you question shortly I’m just up the street.

Everything I’ve looked at has said it should have RED plastic pieces, but they are black? It does have the tapered cylinder, duel boost flutes each side as well as the groove in the piston, so it’s definitely an .051, maybe the plastic was changed? Or it’s just a model I haven’t read about?

Does the needle simply push i to the side of the gold part where the black plastic tube is?

It seems very tight and I don’t want to break anything, does it require a spring? I’ve seen little flat black springs but I’m not sure if this is required on this setup?i

MBT85 wrote:

Jason_WI wrote:KK NVA also. Nice!

What’s KK NVA??

Kustom Kraftmanship needle valve assembly. It’s a fine pitch needle valve that can be used with bladder or pressurized tanks. Sought after.

Oh wow that’s awesome!!
This TeeDee is going to take pride of place in my collection !!
It’s going to be a mantelpiece, this thing is so precious to me, I’ll NEVER ever sell it!
I’m almost crying.....unbelievably generose!!!!

Unfortunately new222 there in so markings at all on the green prop. Not even a size number like 5d 3p etc......which are what the other 2 yellow ‘Cox’ props are.

I just posted 15 minutes of text and lost it.
But that's an .051 alright, and set up for a bladder. If you need any help rigging it up, here's a tutorial video I made. And I can send you a starter kit to make some bladders to get started. They make a TD perform at their peak. I like to use the TD starter springs when learning, it just makes cranking simpler.

Making a bladder
https://youtu.be/BNCkngFqPVw


Cranking and running a bladder
https://youtu.be/o3Evlpf4rG4


Let me know if you need any help. I kind of over complicated it back then, so I can give you some tips if needed.
Rusty

Very nice of you Fred well done!  

As you asked no the needle does not push in.
The needle valve is screw in and can be used (with or without) a bladder a hard tank is just fine
the benefit is the 128 tpi (threads per inch) is a finer thread will allow you to fine tune the NV setting.

The green fiberglass prop is a 1/2A combat prop could be VY 4.96D x 2.75P
It should weigh 3.9g or very close to it competition prop.

Since you want to keep this one on display as you say a mantelpiece engine:
You can order a red carb body to make the engine a complete TD .051:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-Engine-Red-049-051-Tee-Dee-Venturi-Carburetor-Carb-mount-049-051-86-c0501/281011494901?hash=item416d971ff5:g:jdkAAOSwRTVaWC5K:rk:70

You may wish to complete the display engine with a starter spring:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-049-051-Tee-Dee-Medallion-Model-Engine-Snap-Starter-Spring-049-051/391479189621?hash=item5b25fa6075:g:tUIAAOSwBjdaA4T7:rk:11&frcectupt=true

Note you have a black aluminum spinner the engine came originally with un anodized bare aluminum finish:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-049-051-Tee-Dee-Venom-Killer-Babe-Bee-Texaco-RR1-Aluminum-Spinner-049-051/391479184241?epid=2155857886&hash=item5b25fa4b71:g:ljAAAOSwoVNaA4Lg:rk:70


You can use some fine steel wool to shine up the glow plug.

Note this was originally a competition engine the prop of choice back in the day was the competition grey prop
used by clubs to maintain equal prop performance as the blade was stiff. If you wish to display one with your
engine you can buy it here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-049-Model-Engine-Gray-Competition-Prop-5x3-Propeller-5-x-3-049/391479184395?epid=851209589&hash=item5b25fa4c0b:g:lr8AAOSwoVNaA4MJ:rk:60

Note during final assembly oil all the threads with after run hobby engine oil and the crank shaft to help avoid corrosion.
Make sure any windows near by do not cast ultraviolet light onto the plastic parts as this will cause breakdown and fades
the color over time. If possible have it inside a anti dust display case.

THank you for those great videos RknRusty!!
I’m not sure if I’ll use this engine, it’s like gold to me!
I’m a bit scared I don’t want to break anything.

1/2A Nut - thank you for posting those links, I think I’ll buy those parts and complete this engine, does the needle screw in where I showed on that picture or am I missing something?
Is there maybe a link or info on how this system works?

Yes the needle goes through as shown. The black plastic
is a good fit to the NV you may add a dab of oil before screwing it in.

Remember there are thousands of photos online of these engines
for you to reference them at anytime for assistance.

Note in the package the black plastic part came with a spare in case you needed it.
Stripped threads as an example / leaks or if it cracked having the spare is a nice
touch.

I know and I feel stupid but I just didn’t understand if it needed a spring, if it pushed in or screwed in, I did some research and even read the instructions for the tee dee .051 that Kim has sent to me but I still was a little stuck.
Thank you for your help it is very much appreciated.

I can buy all those parts you posted links too except for the red carb mount Body. They won’t ship to Australia. Im going to look around too see if maybe ex models or the like will sell them to me.
Thank you for all your help 1/2A Nut!

Oh and the green prop weighs in at 3.59grams

Ok I went and just screwed the needle in and it went in perfectly.
I’m going to display it the way it is until I can obtain all the original parts.
I don’t have any afterrun hobby oil as I’ve never ran a nitro engine, could I use castor oil?

No never use castor oil to store an engine.
Must be after run oil / special purpose oil.
Some folks can chime in on known oils for long
term display use. All my engines are oiled and
bagged in zip lock bags with the air taken out
of the bag as much as possible. You can use the
search feature to bring up many subjects pertaining
to the engine.

The green fiberglass prop can vary in weight some.

MBT85 wrote:
I can buy all those parts you posted links too except for the red carb mount Body. They won’t ship to Australia.

Sadly that's all too often the truth, but, MECOA (the mob who have the "won't ship to Australia" ebay store) will ship to Australia if you buy directly from their own on-line store.
Funny how things work out.  I got a Tee Dee .049 a while ago and it has the wrong red carb body, so I need to replace it with a black one.  Actually, I don't know if it's an .049 with an .051 carb body, or an .051 with and .049 piston/cylinder installed.

Way to go Fred

Congrats Matt, that's a very nice engine to have, especially with the "Kustom" needle valve assy

I am a total noob when it comes to running these engines, but I have done quite a bit of cleaning-up and polish. There was that other thread about ultrasonic... But that Tee Dee looks like it is clean as a whistle. If you do take it apart to replace the black carb body, be careful not to slip the tool on the collet nut, as the aluminum is a bit soft and getting the tool to hook properly requires care. Fortunately new collet nuts are available too.

About the oil, for assembling and storing I use oil that is meant for lubricating pneumatic tools. It is cheap, and easily available. Viscosity is typically 10W (similar to ATF) it is designed to stay on surfaces and protect from moisture. It stays clear (visually) and does not get sticky over time, and based on my very limited experience, does not affect starting and running the engine. Like Nut, I also store my engines oiled in ziploc bags. I use a lot of oil when assembling, and the engine gets also externally covered in oil in the process. I wipe it clean afterwards with a rag or kitchen tissue, but some oil will always remain on the surface.

Thank you for your reply’s, you guys are so unbelievably helpful!!!

I’m going to have to go to the hobby shop tomorrow and see if he has any after run oil I could buy.

The engine is very clean already yes. I’m not going to polish it or anything though because I’m worries it will damage parts.

OldengineRod- I would be willing to swap if you wanted? I’m not sure if my black one is the same as your red one, but if you wanted we could compare them side by side.

I’m not sure how to get the crankshaft out, I don’t know how to get the gold prop retainer nut off. It looks to have a spline in the middle where it goes on. Does it slide on and off? I really hate asking stupid questions so I’m sorry guys.
I’m new to this game please work with me.
Thank you again so much to all of you who have helped provide me with information about this awesome engine and Fredvon4s unbelievable act of generosity.

Ol' St. Fred, one of the good ones. But he won't tell you that.

It's wonderful to see your enthusiasm. Enjoy your engine.

Bob

Nice gesture Fred !! That's pretty cool you sent the TD in some pieces , no other better way to get to know these engines is to take them apart and see what's inside and how they work !!

Again use the search feature people have already posted answers and photos on everything.

That's a fine thing you did Fred. It's so nice to check in here in the morning after watching the news. Restores my faith in humanity.

I'd tell you to enjoy that engine Mark, but I think you already have that part figured out. As for Fred, my guess is that he's going to get as much satisfaction as you will from your new Tee Dee.

Thanks Fred!